World's End is a beautifully-sited series of forested, tiered cliffs that hang over a small side valley of the upper Eglwseg Valley, just prior to its final rise to the featureless moorland at the head of the catchment. The crag has always been synonymos with rock climbing on the limestone in the Clwyd and is where most first time vistors head for. This attraction has been due to the crags ease of access and good spread of grades. However the climbing on offer is very much more in the 'outcrop' style and is generally not typical of the climbing on the other major crags in the area.
Routes
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131 trad routes (D...E6) 2 sport routes (7b...8a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Tearg Wall Area A fine exposed area of crag that is the upper section of the tiers of vertical walls that hang over... |
28 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Intensity Area A good section of the crag with a few strong lines that yield only after a bit of a grunt. The... |
7 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Shooting Star Area The cream coloured slightly overhanging wall is a good spot for those looking for some excellent... |
12 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Open Book Area Excellent lines abound in this area. Cracks, aretes and corners dominate with some particularly... |
14 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 8 mins |
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| Inelegance Area Deep chimney cracks and juggy flakes contrast well will some very bold but technically superb steep... |
9 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 8 mins |
|
| Black Ash Area This section of cliff is less appealing than the other areas on the upper tier but has a number of... |
15 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 7 mins |
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| Coltsfoot Crack Area The first section of the upper tier reached on the approach is a crag of contrast. Easy polished... |
14 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 7 mins |
|
| Middle Tier A small and short section of crag with little climbing of any great merit. |
7 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy |
| Lower Tier The crag has a couple of reasonable easier pitches but the rock is not as good as first appearances... |
27 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 10 mins |
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