WORLD'S END


World's End is a beautifully-sited series of forested, tiered cliffs that hang over a small side valley of the upper Eglwseg Valley, just prior to its final rise to the featureless moorland at the head of the catchment. The crag has always been synonymos with rock climbing on the limestone in the Clwyd and is where most first time vistors head for. This attraction has been due to the crags ease of access and good spread of grades. However the climbing on offer is very much more in the 'outcrop' style and is generally not typical of the climbing on the other major crags in the area.

Routes

131 trad routes (D...E6)
2 sport routes (7b...8a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Tearg Wall Area
A fine exposed area of crag that is the upper section of the tiers of vertical walls that hang over...
28
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Intensity Area
A good section of the crag with a few strong lines that yield only after a bit of a grunt. The...
7
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Shooting Star Area
The cream coloured slightly overhanging wall is a good spot for those looking for some excellent...
12
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Open Book Area
Excellent lines abound in this area. Cracks, aretes and corners dominate with some particularly...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
Inelegance Area
Deep chimney cracks and juggy flakes contrast well will some very bold but technically superb steep...
9
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
Black Ash Area
This section of cliff is less appealing than the other areas on the upper tier but has a number of...
15
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

7 mins

sheltered
Coltsfoot Crack Area
The first section of the upper tier reached on the approach is a crag of contrast. Easy polished...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

7 mins

sheltered
Middle Tier
A small and short section of crag with little climbing of any great merit.
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Lower Tier
The crag has a couple of reasonable easier pitches but the rock is not as good as first appearances...
27
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Quill
    "Hard for the grade? I don't think so!" 11/Oct

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Finer Feelings
    "my best route to date very pleased with the technical start." 24/Jun top50

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

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