WORLD'S END


World's End sits at the head of the Eglwyseg valley and is made up of a series of tiered cliffs that lean out from a forested hillside. World's End has always been synonymous with rock climbing on Clwyd limestone and, its ease of access and good spread of grades mean that many visitors get their first taste of Clwyd trad here. Many of the better routes are on good compact limestone that rises to around 12m and most of the climbs are vertical or slightly overhanging making them feel longer than their height might suggest. Several of the harder lines have protection from pegs, threads and bolts but treat all fixed protection with caution especially since the crag is covered by a drilling ban preventing replacement of old bolts.

Routes

2 boulder problems (VD...S)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Taerg Wall Area
This fine exposed crag is the upper section of the tiers of vertical walls that hang over the road....
28
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

14 mins

Intensity Area
The area is a good spot for those seeking out some decent mid grade trad lines and has one hard...
20
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

14 mins

Open Book Area
Cracks, aretes and corners dominate in this area, which has some particularly good rock. Suicide...
16
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

13 mins

Inelegance Area
Deep chimney cracks and juggy flakes contrast well with some bold but technically superb steep face...
9
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

13 mins

Black Ash Area
There is little of any quality here but a few reasonable routes can be found in the lower to...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

13 mins

Coltsfoot Crack Area
This is the first section of the Upper Tier reached on the approach. Easy, polished lines on the...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

13 mins

Middle Tier
A short section of crag with little climbing of any great merit. The belays at the top of the crag...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

13 mins

Lower Tier
The crag has a couple of reasonable easier routes but the rock is not as good as first appearances...
27
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For WORLD'S END

    Crystal
    "Route to left, steep to start, a crimpy pull over the bulge then continue up the..." 19/Mar

    Titanium Man
    "Slightly damp on Saturday! Similar but slightly harder than Tearg Wall: easy, ge..." 30/Apr

    The Final Solution
    "No lower off! Why?" 27/Mar top50

    Cornucopia
    "As above comment, does seem a bit dodgy for HVS 5a" 10/May

    Scarface Groove
    "Maybe water washed through it but not much gear and rock not sound." 07/Aug

    Copper Pinnacle
    "was this named the worm in the stewart cathcart guidebook?" 24/Jul

    Butter Arete
    "the bomber gear placement at half height is no more, the block the placement wen..." 11/Jun

    Intensity
    "A brutal but enjoyable battle." 27/Apr top50

    Fall Out
    "found this very pumpy" 22/Feb

    Hornwall
    "Awkward start but soon eases - unfortunately the tree gets in the way a bit" 12/Sep

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