MOTHER CAREY'S


Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing in a great location, with routes from Severe to E7, and with few restrictions due to nesting birds or army shooting practice - in fact, mid-week in the first half of the year can leave it as the only major crag which is available to climb on! It is often popularly known as 'Mother Scarys' which is easy to appreciate as you heave up Rock Idol, or dangle from the Space Face, however, not everything here is steep and exposed, and the routes near Crithmum provide some of the best Severe and VS climbing along the whole coast.

Routes

44 trad routes (S...E7)
17 dws routes (E5...7b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Blind Bay - DWS
Blind Bay consists of the vertical walls around the Beat Ledge feature, and the deep, intimidating...
12
DWS
No sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
Blind Bay
This hidden bay contains some of the best hard routes in the area but most people don't even know...
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Strait Gate
The left-hand side of the crag has a huge overhanging corner - Rock Idol. Left of the corner the...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Brazen Buttress
The centre of Mother Carey's is dominated by the tall tower of Brazen Buttress. Around the tower...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Star Gate
The deep cleft behind Brazen Buttress is home to some of the most bizarre and wild adventures in...
6
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
The Space Face
The side wall overlooking a small Zawn on the east side of Mother Carey's is innocuous on first...
8
Trad
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
The White Tower
Grand, shapely and classic - Pembroke wall climbing at its very best. Yet it's much less trafficked...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For MOTHER CAREY'S

    Brazen Buttress
    "Harder than left wall a jug has gone (1997) where you move right. Your saving fa..." 02/Oct

    Joyous Gard
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Narrow Carriage
    "Good route with a tricky move in the groove and fine moves higher up." 16/Apr

    Toffee Nose
    "This is a great route, deffinatly recomended" 19/Dec

    Rock Idol
    "A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected..." 05/Sep top50

    Zeppelin
    "amazing climb! If you train on indoor overhangs then you have absolutely no excu..." 20/Aug

    Heroes
    "Too eliminate and escapable to be worthwhile. Stepped onto pedestal for a rest t..." 08/Jul

    Zeppelin
    "same as above, i found the top corner the crux" 09/Jan

    Brazen Buttress
    "Still the best route I've done at MCK, delightfully sustained 5b moves. Not E3 (..." 31/Aug

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