Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing in a great location, with routes from Severe to E7, and with few restrictions due to nesting birds or army shooting practice - in fact, mid-week in the first half of the year can leave it as the only major crag which is available to climb on! It is often popularly known as 'Mother Scarys' which is easy to appreciate as you heave up Rock Idol, or dangle from the Space Face, however, not everything here is steep and exposed, and the routes near Crithmum provide some of the best Severe and VS climbing along the whole coast.
Routes
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44 trad routes (S...E7) 17 dws routes (E5...7b) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Blind Bay - DWS Blind Bay consists of the vertical walls around the Beat Ledge feature, and the deep, intimidating... |
12 | DWS |
No sun |
Downhill 10 mins |
Tidal Windy | - |
| Blind Bay This hidden bay contains some of the best hard routes in the area but most people don't even know... |
8 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 214 |
| Strait Gate The left-hand side of the crag has a huge overhanging corner - Rock Idol. Left of the corner the... |
11 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 216 |
| Brazen Buttress The centre of Mother Carey's is dominated by the tall tower of Brazen Buttress. Around the tower... |
9 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 218 |
| Star Gate The deep cleft behind Brazen Buttress is home to some of the most bizarre and wild adventures in... |
6 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy | 220 |
| The Space Face The side wall overlooking a small Zawn on the east side of Mother Carey's is innocuous on first... |
8 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Level 5 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Restricted Access Star Gate - No climbing Mar to 31 Jul | 92 |
| The White Tower Grand, shapely and classic - Pembroke wall climbing at its very best. Yet it's much less trafficked... |
7 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 10 mins |
Windy | 224 |
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