TREVALLEN


For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again. There will be a few climbers out there who have abseiled down to do the classic The Hole (HVS) and then struggled to do the start move only to realise that there is no easier escape; persistence usually gets you up though, since above the start it lets up considerably. If you get through this initiation test un-scarred then a whole host of treasures awaits, in fact there is more quality hard climbing here than anywhere else apart from Huntsman's Leap. The climbing follows a distinct series of bands which slope downwards towards the St Govan's end. The lower band contains the meat of most of the routes - some with good gear, like Sunlover (E3) and Yellow Pearls (E5); and a few big run-outs like Ships that Pass in the Night (E5); but all have immaculate and steep rock. The middle band is much more compact giving some bold sections on many routes like Dogs of Hoare (E5) - usually more technical than pumpy though. The top of the crag has a series of huge juggy breaks which is nowhere better experienced than on The Fascist and Me (E4).

Routes

59 trad routes (HVS...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Heugamont
This first area is at the extreme west end of the platform beneath Trevallen, just past the...
10
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
159
Sunlover
The Sunlover Wall is the big white wall, behind the huge block on the platform, to the left...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
160
Endangered Species
The poor wall between Sunlover and the Hole has a series of hard routes with very loose upper...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
-
The Hole
The wall beneath the abseil at Trevallen hasnít got buckets of stars but there are some interesting...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
162
Fascist and Me
The section of rock between the Hole and Trevallen Pillar has some huge roofs with the occasional...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
164
Trevallen Pillar
As you walk under Trevallen the crag gets bigger and bigger as the platform tapers away into the...
5
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

Abseil
Tidal
166
The Mercenary
To the right of Trevallen Pillar is a vast wall which gives a series of stunning climbs. The cliff...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
168
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  • Latest Comments

    For TREVALLEN

    The Coriolis Affair
    "Excellent first pitch with great moves to gain the break." 16/Apr

    Trevallen Pillar
    "Don't recall any insit gear ... I normally avoid 'fluttery' routes but this seem..." 01/Sep top50

    Trevallen Pillar
    "the insit gear on the crux of the first pitch was welded in but old and made it ..." 09/Jan top50

    Sunlover
    "It used to be possible to place a good no.6 wire from standing in the first brea..." 21/Jun top50

    Dinkum Wall
    "First pitch is tough for E1 5b and bold to start. Second pitch currently has a ..." 25/May

    Sunlover
    "such a lovely route and all the time i had groove armada's 'sunlover' in my heed..." 06/May top50

    Orange Robe Burning
    "A third vote for no need to worry about clipping the thread. The wires to back u..." 28/May

    Fascist Groove Thang
    "I wasted an hour on the first fifteen feet of this route trying to find a way up..." 26/Aug

    Dogs of Hoare
    "A better description would be '...committing move upwards to large, but dubious ..." 26/Aug

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