ST GOVAN'S


This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors; just about every Pembroke devotee has spent time and energy devouring the crag’s colossal spread of highly-charged classics. These mega-lines include Tactician (HVS), The Arrow (E1), Deranged (E2), Space Cadet (E3), Tangerine Dream (E4) and Get Some In (E5). Have no fear; your ticklist will prove to be almost unquenchable. The one minor glitch in the proceedings is the mammoth rockfalls that have taken place during the last decade - gone is Conscientious Objector and its close neighbours, along with much of the quality of the Zodiac Face. But what remains still provides a stupendous number of high-quality routes, including some of the very best ticks in the county. Enjoy, and return often.

Routes

94 trad routes (VD...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Front Line
The dominant arete of Front Line gives one of the first popular ticks of St Govan's. To the left...
11
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Army Dreamers
Army Dreamers is one of the great Pembroke classics up the steep cracks in the front face of the...
7
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

8 mins

The Butcher
One of the most popular walls in Pembroke is dominated by the big arete of The Butcher. All the...
10
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Test Case
The Test Case wall is the home of some long testing pitches which tend to give steep and sustained...
13
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

The Arrow
As the platform below St Govan’s slides into the sea, a huge tower-like buttress stands in front of...
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Tactition
This steep section of cliff hangs over a raised ramp which trails off rightwards under the face....
10
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

Deranged
The wall right of Tactician offers more steep routes. The intimidating steep starts are usually the...
9
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

Range Rider
There are one or two good lines on the rounded buttress just right of the rockfall, and then the...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

Wicked Gravity Area
This massive bulging wall has a large corner on its left and a long loose corner in its centre with...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

12 mins

Abseil
Tidal
sheltered
Restricted Access
Public Enemy Area
This area has suffered a major rockfall in December 2005. Most of the central section has fallen...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For ST GOVAN'S

    The Call Up
    "This route is just as hideously hard as it looks. I couldn't even second it clea..." 07/Oct

    Deranged
    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    Photocall
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    Photocall
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

    Range Rider
    "i spurned the gonads and went slightly further left for the crux!" 16/Apr

    Hangover '77
    "From the bottom it looks harder than it actually is. I'm not saying it's not pum..." 06/Apr

    Tangerine Dream
    "Aptly titled, a dream of a route. Very safe & therefore a good choice for pu..." 01/Sep top50

    D-Day
    "Could anyone else share their thoughts on the final groove? We thought it was c..." 11/Jul

    War Crime
    "Agreed, fabulous route." 08/Jul

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