BOSHERSTON HEAD


Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head with huge solid faces on all sides. Despite this vast expanse of rock it has never been that popular mainly due to the intimidating nature of the climbing - you can't get a good view of it and the stuff you can see tends to be in the higher grades, plus the fact that we omitted the celebrated South Face from the last Rockfax guide.
The most popular spot on the headland is the Keelhaul Wall; a fine compact wall of excellent rock with a quartet of class routes - Ghost Ship (E3), Intensive Scare (E2), Baker's Door (E1) and Keelhaul (E2). Next door is the dramatic leaning wall made infamous by the controversial route The Big Issue (E9) and adjacent to this is the stylish Ivory Tower (E2). Moving further round, the South Face is glorious, smacking of wild abseils, grand-scale adventure and seat-of-the-pants daring. This is partly because it's impossible to gain a decent view of your chosen route before engaging, and partly because this terrific hunk of rock is home to one of Pembroke's finest adventures - Preposterous Tales, going at the thoroughly unlikely (caving) grade of HVS, or the E2 we give it here! However, if you are really in search of emotional and soul-searching leads of E4 and above, on wonderful rock, giving you an experience which you will be talking about for years, then you need look no further than the Star Wars area.

Routes

43 trad routes (HS...E9)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Keelhaul
A beautiful slabby wall of immaculate rock. The routes here are intense and fingery, usually with...
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Ivory Tower
This splendid tower of rock is home to the popular Ivory Tower. Its companion Agent Orange is a...
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
The Big Issue
This obscenely-angled orange wall is home to one of Pembroke's more impressive routes. The routes...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
South Face
This superb and atmospheric section of cliff has plenty to offer at a reasonable grade although the...
17
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Star Wars
This fine wall at the entrance to the Leap is home to the majestic Star Wars and a collection of...
6
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For BOSHERSTON HEAD

    Keelhaul
    "Set off in a confident mood which completely vanished after slipping on wet hold..." 09/Dec

    High Life
    "E2 5c" 20/Dec

    Keelhaul
    "The best E2 I've done in Pembroke, should be top 50. A beautiful, absorbing rout..." 16/Sep

    Intensive Scare
    "This route gets E3 5c in the new Climbers Club guide..... and even though it wou..." 08/Jul

    Keelhaul
    "Amazing route although being little slick at the bottom led to an over-griping p..." 07/Jun

    Sunny Corner
    "Really awkward corner- good gear- but 'squirming' onto the hanging slab sums it ..." 01/Jun

    Keelhaul
    "Just brilliant; the great sequence of moves to gain the overhang quite a way abo..." 31/Mar

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