THE CASTLE


The headland of The Castle is a bastion; a shapely disarming profusion of cracks, grooves and aretes. Its classics are many and varied, and usually on perfect compact rock; testpieces include the brilliant Too Much Pressure (E1), Vista (E2), and Out for the Count (E4). In the past the South Face was traditionally undergraded which earned the crag a fearsome reputation. Even after the upgrades these cracks in the E4/5 category still pack a punch and are no soft options.
The East Face is somewhat more enigmatic, offering a diverse region of bizarre corners, leaning faces and aretes. Here, classics include the superb Wishful Thinking (E1) and Critical Masses (E4), but you will need to invest considerable time in unlocking its secrets and accessing its tucked-away lower belay ledges. A further complication is the lack of simple belays blocks on the upper slope - be inventive!
Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. See the route descriptions for S grades and further info.

Routes

30 trad routes (S...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Southwest Face
The slabby west face of the castle is less well known than the imposing South Face but has a decent...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Tidal
South Face
A magnificent piece of rock which presents a pair of compact vertical faces. Great for E4/5...
10
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
East Face
The East Face of the Castle has a great set of very steep routes. It is popular with Deep Water...
12
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
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