This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!
As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.
Routes
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24 trad routes (S...E6) 5 dws routes (E2...E6) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| West Face The west face of the Castle has an uncharacteristic set of realtively amenable routes up slabs and... |
7 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 20 mins |
Tidal Windy Range East - usually closed mid-week | 86 |
| South Face A magnificent piece of rock which presents a pair of compact vertical faces. Great for E4/5... |
10 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Range East - usually closed mid-week | 87 |
| East Face The East Face of the Castle has a great set of very steep routes. It is popular with Deep Water... |
12 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Level 20 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Range East - usually closed mid-week | 88 |
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