SA GUBIA


The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia is the most extensive and varied crag on Mallorca, and is where the first climbing developments took place in the 1980s. Since then it has maintained its status as the island's premier crag and this is likely to continue since there is still plenty of potential here for new routes. It is only in recent years that the largest face at Sa Gubia - Cara Oeste - has begun to be developed. This major feature is tucked away out of view of most of Sa Gubia but is well worth a look if you have a few idle minutes to wander up the gully below Albahida. The climbing on offer on the better developed sections of the crag will suit most tastes and styles although it is a little lacking in the very highest grades. For the majority of climbers, Sa Gubia is a must-visit destination with a host of superb routes from slabby grade 4s to major 7s. Probably one of the most appealing aspects of climbing at Sa Gubia is the wealth of classic longer climbs such as Excalibur, and Estricina at grade 5, and Bomberos, Princesa and Sexo débil in the higher grades. There is also a classic trad route which is correctly known as Albahida but in the past has been called Gubia Normal. This follows the majestic long ridge which dominates the crag and is visible from a plane if you know where to look.

Routes

121 sport routes (4...8b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Paret dels Coloms
This is the massive wall on the left-hand side of the gorge at Sa Gubia. The best routes link up...
35
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Seepage

0

96
Cara Oeste
The west face of Sa Gubia ranks as one of the more impressive walls in Europe. It is around 100m...
10
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

60 mins

0

100
Sector Albahida
The most striking of Sa Gubia's rock features is the dominating arete in the centre of the cliff -...
3
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

0

102
Sector Bomberos
The largest and most complex area at Sa Gubia is the huge bay which dominates the northern side of...
16
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

30 mins

0

105
Sector Princesa
The huge rear-wall of the bay is an immense and well-featured section of rock. At present it is...
13
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

30 mins

0

107
Sector Potaje Español
The slabby lower wall below Sexo débil has a fine set of easier routes, which are deservedly...
12
Sport
No sun
Uphill

30 mins

sheltered

0

108
Sector Isla Bonita
Two fine and popular sectors with some great routes.
14
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

25 mins

sheltered

0

110
Sector Excalibur
This is the buttress perched above and behind Sector Silicona, and is a popular location which...
11
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

25 mins

0

112
Sector Silicona
This popular sector is often the first section of Sa Gubia sampled by visiting climbers. The climbs...
11
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

sheltered

0

114
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