Behind the typical Spanish city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high point is the rocky ridge of the Cresta del Gallo - or the cocks-comb. At one end of this is the impressive tower of La Panocha, (the Corncob), the best climbing venue in the immediate area. The place is popular at weekends - with city dwellers escaping for a bit of cragging, - its the same the world over. During the week you are likely to have the place to yourself. The area has a full spread of grades, with many fine face routes and a number of mini-summits to bag. Most of the routes are single pitches though the biggest of these are 40m long. The local guide is Cresta del Gallo y La Panocha written and published by Sergio Hernandez Rodriguez and Francisco Jose Iniesta Gallego.
Routes
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1 trad route (6c) 96 sport routes (3+...7c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Northwest Face The main feature is the tall tower of La Panocha, standing in front of the main ridge, it has... |
14 | Sport |
Evening sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 62 |
| Sector Lennon Across the gully is the slabby Sector Lennon, originally developed back in the 1980s, just after... |
12 | Sport |
Evening sun |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 63 |
| South Face The most popular section of the cliff has a bunch of good face routes, all of which are a bit... |
21 | Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 65 |
| Sector Blanco The steep wall opposite the slabbier South Face of La Panocha is split on its left-hand side by a... |
9 | Sport |
No sun |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 66 |
| Sector Caseta - Lower Sector Caseta is the large tower opposite La Panocha, with a fine viewpoint on its summit. It has... |
7 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 67 |
| Sector Quijar This sector consists of the two walls of the gully that is used to access the Pasaje Lunar, just... |
13 | Trad and Sport |
Sun and shade |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 68 |
| Sector Caseta - Upper The Upper section of Sector Caseta has a small slab with four routes on it. |
5 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 69 |
| Paisaje Lunar Over the col from Sector Caseta is a different world, often sheltered from westerly winds and... |
16 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Up and down 10 mins |
Windy | 70 |
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