WILDCAT


Wildcat has long been a popular crag due to its accessibility, sunny situation and its collection of multi-pitch Orange Spot routes. Many of these follow strong lines on decent quality rock that, generally speaking, isn't too steep - for limestone that is - there are no slabs here! The cliff is very extensive and there is a lot of poor rock and vegetation scattered along its length. Although much of this has all been climbed on in the past, it is best left to return to nature. Only the better buttresses are described in detail here and these are well worth visiting. Many of the routes start with a slightly grotty first pitch leading to a well-placed stance just above the treetops, about halfway up the face. Above this, the quality cranks up, and many routes have excellent upper pitches, with spectacular positions high above the woods and river.

Routes

34 trad routes (S...E5)
7 sport routes (6b+...7c+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
New Bridge Buttress
This fine compact little wall is situated directly above the bridge crossed on the approach. It has...
8
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Coyote Buttress
This tall wall features some impressive black groove-lines and a narrow buttress on its right-hand...
17
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
High Crag
The tallest section of Wildcat is bounded on the left by the deep groove of Manx and has the...
16
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
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