PEÑÓN DE IFACH


The most striking landmark in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the 332m high tower of the Peñón de Ifach that towers over Calp. The subject of the majority of the area's postcards must attract every climber's eye, and those who have attempted routes here will know that the climbing does not disappoint. The South Face of the Peñón is the more extensive of the two main climbing areas. This huge orange wall rises up above the sea, its top half riddled with caves, overhangs and groove systems. Many long routes find their way up the face and weave through this complex rock architecture to finish satisfyingly on the summit. There is a number of lower-grade challenges that are popular classics - requiring an early start and a decent rack of gear; Valencianos and Vía UBSA are the prime examples. The really big ticks are the superb, fully-bolted classics like Costa Blanca, El Navegante, Puto paseo ecológico and Nueva Dimensión. There are few sport routes to compare with these anywhere in the Costa Blanca. The other area described here is the North Face, which points inland and overlooks the park's visitor centre; a useful venue when the weather is hot, although it does have a seasonal climbing restriction due to nesting birds, usually from 1st April to 30th June.
The rock is of variable quality, with some loose material, especially on the lower pitches. It is worth wearing a helmet, especially on the easier and more popular routes. A top tip to avoid rockfall is make sure you are on the cliff early so that there are fewer people above you! Of course this also means that it is vital to be careful when climbing here since there will be teams below.
All the routes are long and can require 5 or 6 hours or more for a leisurely ascent, although there are reports of people taking as long as 11 hours on Gómez-Cano. Despite this, climbers who are well organised should manage to reach the summit in 3 to 4 hours.

Routes

1 winter route (6b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
_
-
^
-
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The North Face
The section above the path has been banned on occasions in the past - watch for signs or check the...
7
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Restricted Access
South Face
The vast south face is where the most interest is for climbers. On its left-hand side is a...
23
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

What do these symbols mean?