Although a long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calpe, Leyva is within the hinterland of the Costa Blanca. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance. The main face is a 150 metre high south facing wall of excellent rock, not unlike the top half of the Falaise d'Escales in the French Verdon. The routes here were all done in traditional style originally, but in recent years there has been a substantial rebolting program and all the best climbs are now fully parabolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quick-draws (some of the pitches are pretty big!), and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter and just use a single rope it is possible to walk off at the right side of the cliff. To the right of and at a lower level than the main cliff are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch climbs across a range of difficulty, all of which are fully bolted. These are the Sector de la Cueva and the Sector Percera.
Routes
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66 sport routes (4+...8b+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The Main Face A magnificent wall! A wide expanse of excellent limestone, split by some fantastic lines and the... |
13 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 50 mins |
Windy | 46 |
| Las Cuevas A collection of over 50 single pitch routes, from small to very large with a grade spread from 4+... |
35 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 40 mins |
Dry in the Rain | 50 |
| La Pecera The section of rock on the far right has a collection of well-bolted routes from 5+ to 6b. A... |
18 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 45 mins |
52 | |
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