GANDÍA


The first impression of this crag as you approach is that it is significantly less impressive than most of the bits of rock you have just driven past. However first impressions can be deceptive and when you get involved with the routes you will find some immaculate climbs on near-perfect rock formations. There is a good grade range and, although it isn't one of the better areas for people leading below 6a, there are still plenty of easier routes dotted around the crag. Most of the best climbing is on steep bulging tufas in the harder grades and the crag is an absolutely essential destination for those operating at 7a/7b. Some of the harder routes are a bit chipped but the best bits tend to be swinging around on the tufas and pockets at the bottom on natural holds. The easier climbs are mostly on grey slabs and walls with fingery and technical climbing.

Routes

182 sport routes (3+...8c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Sector Critic
At the far left-hand side of the crag is a buttress separated from the main crag by a steep, narrow...
17
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
380
Sector Hidraulics
The appropriately-named large cave is to the left of where the approach path arrives at the crag....
25
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
382
Sector Vici
This impressive wall has a prominent red streak above a small cave. The routes here are amongst the...
20
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
384
Sector Fundició
This steep sector has some long easier routes on its left-hand side and an impressive bulging wall...
22
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

sheltered
386
Sector Potent
Well named - with a superb array of tufa features to do battle with. Only really strong climbers...
22
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

14 mins

sheltered
388
Sector Final
The last section is less imposing than the rest of the cliffs, and in general the routes are a bit...
16
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
392
Sector Topdeckio
The Upper Tier gets far less traffic than the lower walls but has been described by some as the...
27
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

394
El Bovedón
This cave gives some superb routes.
33
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
396
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