STADEN QUARRY


Staden Quarry is a bit of an anomaly, that rarest of beasts, a Peak limestone quarry with good rock and some great trad routes. Sadly the perfect tag is spoilt by the fact that the place faces north. There are three main chunks of rock of interest to climbers, with the Joint Effort Wall being the real showpiece of the crag. All the climbs listed here are worth doing, and there are some real classics amongst them.
Also covered here is the steep shady wall known as Craig-y-Biceps. This bulging face is unclimbable for much of the year because of seepage, but when dry, it gives some entertaining steep sport routes on decent rock. Recent developments have seen a re-equipping and the addition of several easier climbs on the wings.

Routes

34 trad routes (HS...E6)
27 sport routes (6a...7c+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Craig-y-Biceps
This north-facing crag is unclimbable for much of the year. It is inclined to be vegetated as it...
30
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
sheltered
A Game of Chess
The first section described in the main quarry is a short face on the left of the long back wall....
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Bicycle Repair Man
A fine slab capped by a substantial tree, with another at its base. It is split by two prominent...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
Joint Effort Wall
The showpiece of the quarry is this tall and rugged slab of dark rock. The right-hand side is...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Restricted Access
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