STONEY


Stoney is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the many mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yardstick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitterfingers, Wee Doris and Oliver. Many folks' initial experiences at Stoney are off-putting - too much polish on the easy routes and too many hard moves on the hard routes. This is not always helped by the traffic noise though at least the quarrying has stopped. However, the one thing that all climbers who have experienced the fine climbing on the crag will agree on - the routes are certainly memorable. Nothing here drops into the done-once-quickly-forgotten category that might be levelled at routes in nearby Horseshoe. The best advice is to come here and try the routes for yourself with an open mind, but be prepared for the odd bit of loose rock, polished foothold, occasional awkward runner placements and some pretty solid grades. The crag has been an icon of Peak climbing for years - long may this continue.

Routes

151 trad routes (M...E6)
38 sport routes (5c...8a+)
1 boulder problem (f7A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Electric Quarry
This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There...
13
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
The Slurper
Up the slope to the right of the quarry is a long wall running out to the jutting tower of Mortuary...
5
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
Mortuary Steps
The name is macabre, but the reality is less intimidating, especially the fine HVS up the centre of...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

The Triglyph
This isolated tower of rock has three classic old crack-climbs (mostly) with a classic old first...
4
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Prayer Wheel Wall
The ever-popular and well-sheltered Prayer Wheel Wall is home to Padme and Mani which get plenty of...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Pearly Gates
The scrappy looking area between Padme and Gabriel and the Pearly Gates is actually worth a second...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Carl's Wark
Below Prayer Wheel Wall is a hidden bay with a steep back wall. The easy access to the top has made...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Minus Ten Wall
The Minus Ten Area is another long-time training venue for the hard-core. However, these days most...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Medusa Bay
This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Bitterfingers
At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Tower of Babel
When viewed from Windy Ledge, this thin tower looks like it will fall down at any minute. However,...
3
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Windy Buttress
The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb...
26
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

Garage Buttress
An impressive buttress with a good set of trad routes and newer sport routes. The rock is a bit...
46
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

6 mins

sheltered
Goddard's Quarry
A sheltered wall on the huge quarry on the south side of the road.
7
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
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