STONEY MIDDLETON


Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.

Routes

149 trad routes (M...E6)
8 sport routes (?...?)
1 boulder problem (??)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
The Electric Quarry
This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There...
20
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
44
The Slurper
Up the slope to the right of the quarry is a long wall running out to the jutting tower of Mortuary...
5
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

sheltered
46
Mortuary Steps
The name is macabre, but the reality is less intimidating, especially the fine HVS up the centre of...
7
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

47
Prayer Wheel Wall
The ever-popular and well-sheltered Prayer Wheel Wall is home to Padme and Mani which get plenty of...
11
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
48
The Triglyph
This isolated tower of rock has three classic old crack-climbs (mostly) with a classic old first...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

48
Fingal's Cave
No description as yet.
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
50
Pearly Gates
The scrappy looking area between Padme and Gabriel and the Pearly Gates is actually worth a second...
7
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
51
Carl's Wark
Below Prayer Wheel Wall is a hidden bay with a steep back wall. The easy access to the top has made...
10
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
52
Minus Ten Wall
The Minus Ten Area is another long-time training venue for the hard-core. However, these days most...
9
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
54
Medusa Bay
This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee...
12
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
56
Bitterfingers
At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of...
10
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
58
Tower of Babel
When viewed from Windy Ledge, this thin tower looks like it will fall down at any minute. However,...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
59
Windy Buttress
The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb...
27
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

8 mins

60
Garage Buttress
An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. The rock is a bit suspect in...
20
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

6 mins

66
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  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    The Slurper
    "As mentioned above, first pitch to Slurper is poor. Hard initial moves, especial..." 08/Jul

    Cock-a-leekie Wall
    "Worthwhile route. Tough crux, getting on 6a, on the right of the scoop." 05/Jul

    Special K
    "A poor route. A few poorly protected pulls then a so so E2 5c to finish. The bes..." 27/Jun

    Om
    "HVS 5b" 06/Jun

    Flycatcher
    "...and Flycathcer is spelt Flycatcher!" 04/Jun

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