BIRCHEN


Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly atmosphere and good collection of low-grade routes. The place has always been a favourite with groups and this long-standing popularity has led to the wearing of many of the already rounded holds. Quite a number of the routes have slippery and awkward starts but get yourself going and things often ease rapidly with height. Summer weekends can be extremely busy, but if you leave the main section and head rightwards to the more secluded buttresses, you will probably find a bit of solitude.
The majority of routes at Birchen have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top, erected to celebrate Nelson's victory at the Battle of Trafalgar back in 1805.

Routes

155 boulder problems (M...E6)
40 ice routes (f3...f7C+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Far Left
The short walls at the left-hand extremity of the cliff are less popular than the rest of Birchen...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Emma's Slab
The first section of the main part of the cliff is home to several worthwhile climbs, mostly cracks...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Nelson's Slab
A couple of fine buttresses and an attractive hanging slab that is difficult to access ensure this...
15
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Sail Buttress
With a steep north-facing wall and an attractive valley face, Sail Buttress is a fine lump of rock...
18
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
The Promenade to Trafalgar Wall
One of the most popular beginners' areas on grit with the fine clean (and slippery) slab of The...
16
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Stoker's Wall
A short wall split by a series of cracks and with a bunch of low grade climbs. The area provides a...
14
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Copenhagen Wall
The low, undercut face of Copenhagen Wall is taller than it used to be - erosion of the ground in...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Tar's Wall to Barbette Buttress
To the right of the Fo'c'sle area is series of short slabby walls and grooves ending at a prominent...
21
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
Seasick Slab
Up and right of the prow of Barbette Buttress is a short clean wall of lovely rock above a level...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Wooden Leg Wall
A few interesting routes in an out-of-the-way setting. The place gets a bit overgrown with bracken...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Kismet Buttress
Birchen's last gasp is not a bad effort. Sheltered and usually quiet, the place is worth a couple...
17
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For BIRCHEN

    The Crow's Nest
    "This is a proper VS with VS moves all the way and bit out of character to the ot..." 03/Jun

    The Prow
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Bosun's Nose
    "Bouldermat or good spotting essential for the start. Only real protection comes ..." 06/Jul

    Old Codger
    "First ascent Gary Gibson 2.4.79" 25/Jul

    Victory Vice
    "Start right in the corner to get the most out of the route, extend to the finish..." 15/Jul

    Nelson's Nemesis
    "Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out und..." 14/Jul

    Fuse
    "Me and my mate Bal did this route and thouht it was well good. I lead and though..." 11/Jul

    Telescope Tunnel
    "I tried this last weak - as the crack tightened up in the middle - i went back o..." 08/Jul

    Fo'c'sle Wall
    "Great little route - worth more stars if it weren't so escapable, although the e..." 30/Jun

    Dead Eye
    "V3 I thought. Very tricksy (but easy once sussed) 6a, I thought it was all over..." 26/Apr

    Victory Crack
    "Fist jams and gear galore but awkward nonetheless!" 09/Apr

    Stoker's Wall
    "The top out requires neat and confident footwork if you are short (and can't rea..." 28/Mar

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