GARDOM'S


Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected edge; except for the area around Apple Buttress it is unusual to see another team here. The classic Moyer's Buttress tops the hit list for visitors though and there are plenty of worthwhile offerings spread along the edge. Those who are prepared to pick and choose will be rewarded with some delightful and secluded routes. Gardom's has a quartet of fine routes in the E3 grade with Sleeping Sickness, Stormbringer, Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset offering a great day out for a suitably talented team.
Travelling along the cliff base is tortuous in many areas, returning to the cliff top is often the best option when moving between buttresses. The neglected air of the cliff tends to add to the appeal for many some, making a nice change from the circus atmosphere at more popular venues.

Routes

147 trad routes (M...D)
13 boulder problems (f6A+...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Black Wall
The first section of Gardom's is not the best, facing northwest, with large damp overhangs and a...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Overhang Buttress
Similar to its near neighbour, Overhang Buttress is often green, dirty and dank. In hot weather...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

sheltered
Moyer's Climb
A small buttress with a green north face (home to a less well-known Moyer's Climb) and a...
10
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

sheltered
Garden Face
A popular blocky buttress that is split by several cracks and has a nice collection of easier...
9
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

sheltered
Och Aye Wall
A smooth green slab that was quarried long ago. It has a trio of technical slabby wall climbs. To...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

sheltered
Moyer's Buttress
The best buttress on the crag is home to one of the Peak's most famous challenges - Moyer's...
10
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Elliott's Buttress
The classic E1, Eye of Faith, makes a great second route of the day if you have come to do Moyer's...
7
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

sheltered
Oread Buttress
A small, isolated buttress, halfway between the more conspicuous outcrops of Moyer's Buttress and...
3
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Undertaker's Buttress
Another small, isolated buttress, most notable for its impressive jutting beak. Hidden in the...
3
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Marble Wall
A very neglected section of the edge which is almost always green and dirty. The addition of a...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Gardom's Unconquerable
A fine steep face - an isolated anciently quarried section - which is almost impossible to view...
6
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Tree Buttress and Crocodile
A diverse section with some crack climbs plus a few harder challenges including a fine prow with...
17
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Grooved Wall Area
A couple of isolated buttresses with a classic E3 5c and a series of pleasant crack and groove...
20
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Apple Buttress
One of the best bits of rock on the cliff with the classics of N.M.C. Crack and Apple Arete. The...
19
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

sheltered
Pillar Wall
Beyond Apple Buttress is a neat wall tucked below the edge. It may be green early in the year...
5
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

25 mins

sheltered
Moorside Rocks
The southern extremity of Gardom's is a neat little outcrop. It looks a bit like a Dartmoor tor and...
16
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For GARDOM'S

    Apple Arete
    "Modern friends make this pretty well protected: these days I reckon more like HS..." 14/Apr

    Landsickness
    "Changed from E3 6a * to E3 6a **, 67% of 3 votes for **" 23/Mar

    Bitter
    "v.safe, great move(s) - if only it were longer" 21/May

    Landsick
    "Did Landsick, Moyers and Eye of Faith last Saturday; this one was by far the har..." 20/Sep

    Apple Arete
    "yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half..." 03/May

    Crottle
    "That about sums it up" 29/Mar

    Tree Groove
    "Probably HS 4b with a couple of big cams for the traverse. Actually, probably HS..." 05/Oct

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Excellent route, the bottom flake is hard work and interest is maintained to the..." 29/May

    Make it Snappy
    "I agree, the description is perhaps somewhat misleading. It may have a big fall ..." 29/Apr

    Gardom's Unconquerable
    "Its only bold if you don't spot the hidden gear!" 23/Apr

    Finale Groove
    "I don't agree with Phil Lyon, there is loads of bomber gear placements! First pi..." 21/Mar

    Make it Snappy
    "This is an awesome route, hard but pretty safe with a big fall out zone. Not su..." 01/Dec

    Waterloo Sunset
    "harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. int..." 20/Nov

    The Enigma Variation
    "A good little route that packs it in on very steep rock. Reasonable cams and hol..." 16/Aug

    Moyer's Buttress
    "No in situ sling. But a hands-off kneebar rest by the block. Ace!" 06/Aug top50

    Layback Crack
    "That should say "This is a real pig"." 27/Jun

    Babylon's Groove
    "Much more awkward at the crux than Finale Groove" 23/Jun

    Giant's Staircase
    "bridging was more fun than the layback" 04/Jun

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