MARGALEF


Margalef is a pleasant little area to the west of the other crags covered in this book. The crags line the sides of a secluded river valley with the various walls protruding from the trees and offering extremes of climbing. There are plenty of pleasant slabs, at friendly grades, which is useful since green-spot routes are in short supply on some Daurada crags. The fine crags of Can Llepafils and Can Torxa are the main attractions for most visitors and these two alone will give a great day’s climbing with just the odd complaint about the undercut starts. Next to (or directly below) the pleasant slabs are some of the steepest and wildest formations you will find anywhere, many of which are so radical that they are likely to remain projects for many years to come. However, despite all this steep rock, there is not that much to attract the hard climber since few of the walls have been developed.

Routes

82 sport routes (4a...7b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Can Torxa
This is the first quality buttress encountered on the road side of the stream.
12
Sport
Lots of sun!
Roadside

0 mins

sheltered
El Toxto d'en Fredi
A small and relatively insignificant buttress further up the road which has two worthwhile routes.
3
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Can Llepafils
The most extensive buttress in the valley is perched above the impressive bulging walls of El...
34
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
Can Verdures
This steep buttress is heavily undercut at the point where the path arrives. The main area of...
15
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Can Pesafigues
The first buttress encountered on the shady side of the stream is heavily vegetated at its base.
14
Sport
Early morning sun
Uphill

8 mins

sheltered
Can Si Fa No Fot
The final crag described is further up the valley, on the same side as Can Llepafils. The routes...
5
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

2 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For MARGALEF

    Ivan Tres Potes
    "Awesome route and my first 7b outdoors! Plus it was a flash with the draws in. B..." 24/Dec

    Route 10
    "The name of the route is Chachi qui chapi" 03/Apr

    Freekando
    "There is a 3 star 6c called Delicatessen starting as for this route and trending..." 16/Dec

    Txana
    "Very good route. Exposed." 11/Apr

    Trumfus peluts
    "Polished and intimdating for a warm up. Get the local guide from the refuge and ..." 26/Mar

    Route 10
    "Pumptastic" 22/Mar

    Route 10
    "Gets 7a in the local guide....can't remember the name.....brilliant climb but di..." 13/Nov

    Besalgato
    "All of the routes in this section, from about route 9 to 19ish, have starts that..." 05/Oct

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