Acid Jazz Area

Adjacent Areas
< Unsung Area  |  Teenage Lust Area >

Sport
Sun and Shade
12 mins
Downhill

A fine, open face that, rather alarmingly, is gaining height due to slippage of the earth and ledges below. Take care when moving along the base of the crag. The first sections of the climbs are easy, but on crumbly rock.
Approach - Drive through Weston and, at a roundabout, turn right into Reap Lane and park after the first traffic-calming installation. From here go past the second traffic-calming installation, and pick up a footpath/track on the right (opposite Rip Croft) that heads towards the huge Southwell Business Park complex. At the massive fence, turn right and follow it to the coast path. From the coast path, drop down a path that cuts back right and then left to the small walls. Continue carefully along the path from under the Unsung Area. This path is liable to change as the slope slowly creeps seaward.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Memories from the Fort
Good pockets in the lower half gain crimpy side-pulls and then an easier upper wall follows.
 6c
2
Sniper in the Brain
Move left from the fourth bolt of Holding the Zero.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
3
Holding the Zero
Eases up after an interesting start.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
4
Stay on Target
The original start was to the right, but this is now unclimbable due to earth slippage at the base. Start up Holding the Zero...
 7a
5
Dead Man's Click
Move right from Stay on Target to reach the wall on the far right.
 7a
6
Old Painless
The first route on the main wall has some spaced bolts.
 7a+
7
Useless Generation
Technical and fingery climbing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
8
My Love of this Land
This has lost a hold and become a bit harder. The third clip remains as gripping as it has always been.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b
9
Treachery
Climb directly up the wall on some good rock, passing a small overhang midway.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
10
Going Blank Again
There is only one hard move, but it's a tough one.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
11
The Treacle Factory
The full-height groove and crack-system is worthwhile.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a+
12
Alberta Balsam
A good looking groove.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
13
Montreal Protocol
A direct start has been added to straighten the route out.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
14
Cosa Nostra
The corner line has a slightly dirty start, but gives good climbing above; however it is often damp and in such conditions the...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
6a+
15
Acid Jazz Disco
The fine arete has a slightly broken start, but improves dramatically higher up. The arete is climbed mainly on its right-hand...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a
16
Eight-Bar Blues
An excellent face of perfect blue rock. There is a handy belay-bolt at the base of the line.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+