Unsung Area

Adjacent Areas
< So Hardcore Area  |  Acid Jazz Area >

Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill

A friendly bay with some short and intense test-pieces on high quality rock. It is situated high above the sea and is reasonably sheltered, with a nice grassy belay area.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Updraft
Climb the crack/groove.
 5a
2
The Gods Are Angry
The groove left of the arete.
 4c
3
Summer Lightning
The slabby arete. Climb direct from the lowest point.
 
Technical
6b+
4
Here Comes The Rain Again
Follow a groove delicately leftwards. Harder than it looks.
 5c
5
Captian's Log
The blunt arete taken direct - short and bouldery.
 6b+
6
Voracious Animal of the Weasel Family
The short crack.
 3
7
Heart Stoppingly Brutal
The ?-shaped flake-crack.
 4c
8
RP Screamers
At the start, clip the first bolt of Alpenglow. Also use the Alpenglow lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
9
Alpenglow
The fading groove is super-sustained and very good.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
10
Topsy Turvy Land
There are some amazing mono holds on this route for which small fingers help.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
Weakest to the Wall
The superb, right-trending pocketed sheet is hard to flash.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
12
The Magnificent 7
A leftwards link from the second bolt on Weakest to the Wall to the third bolt on Topsy Turvy Land, via a series of crimps and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
13
Compromise
Use the same bolts as Resisting Mutiny, but climb to the left.
 
Reachy
Crimpy
7b+
14
Resisting Mutiny
A crimp-nasty sequence, directly above the shelf on The Right Mix, staying exactly on the bolt line. An eliminate.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
15
The Right Mix
Well worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
6b
16
Never Lose that Feeling
A technical delight with a low crux that stumps many.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
17
Sing Something Simple
The wall with a particularly hard move leaving a big ledge low down. Awkward to keep out of Unsung.
 
Technical
6c+
18
Unsung
A short, but action-packed line.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
19
Come In Alone, Go Out Alone
A bouldery start, followed by more hard climbing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
20
No Soft Option
A very fierce crux, followed by an easier run-out section.
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b
21
Dial-a-Cliché
This attractive shallow groove is a touch bold, and has seen some nasty falls.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6c+
22
The Web
Move up to and follow the shallow groove.
 
Technical
6b
23
Sgt. Ford's Roving Truncheon
25m. A two pitch traverse starting up Oscourt, belaying above The Right Mix, and then continuing to the belay on RP Screamers....
 7a
24
Can't Stop the Bosch
The short line on the right side of the bay.
 
Crimpy
6b+
  • Latest Comments

    For WALLSEND NORTH

    Poop Scoop
    "There is a large loose block just above and left of the first bolt, beware!!" 09/Sep

    The Right Mix
    "Probably climbed this more times than any other route in Wallsend, never get bor..." 27/Jun

    They Walked in Line
    "Quality climbing, fierce but fun. Best done on a thick skin day." 03/Jun

    Eight-Bar Blues
    "I'm not sure how it could possibly be easier for the short, though I didn't thin..." 31/Jul

    Cosa Nostra
    "Seems to have reverted back to its previous dirty condition. The upper flake/cra..." 05/Jul

    Sweet Smell of Success
    "paul you should also do 'Fun factory' on the back cliff at battleship! very good..." 19/Jun top50

    Sweet Smell of Success
    "You are right Andy, definitely a contender for best at grade :) Try 'Stone Cold..." 15/Jun top50

    Topsy Turvy Land
    "Now re-bolted." 20/Jun

    Sweet Smell of Success
    "amazing! second of the three on this wall, right of 'stay golden' similar in dif..." 25/Apr top50

    Acid Jazz Disco
    "The flash is there for the taking but does require some commitment as can feel a..." 09/Mar

    Acid Jazz Disco
    "i thought this was nails for 7a! but then again im not an arette man! really goo..." 05/Mar

    Wonderful
    "Wonderful moves through the crux!" 11/Aug

    The Right Mix
    "I stick-clipped the first bolt, but then got gripped above the two threads which..." 21/Jul

    Up on the Hill
    "I concur - a really enjoyable pitch which is not noticeably run out. Hard to rea..." 12/May

    Stone Cold Sober
    "This is not 7a+, I have tried this on two visits now and still failed to get it ..." 12/May

    Sweet Smell of Success
    "They can be covered in ming and are then considerably harder; get them on a good..." 11/May top50

    Stay Golden
    "This is a fantastic route with very varied climbing. A steep, juggy start then t..." 29/Apr top50

    Search for comments