The Old Redoubt

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
3 mins
Downhill
Tidal

The centrepiece of the Old Redoubt is its Great Cave, one of the UK's most impressive sea-cliffs. The immense overhangs and neck-straining lines are some of the West Country's most spectacular. Guidebook page 346.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Goddess of Gloom
Sustained climbing on a strong line-up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Moonraker
One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Dreadnought
A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
4
Seventh Dread
Although a linking pitch, this inventive section of climbing allows the magnificent lower section of Moonraker to be connected...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
Savage Earthsea
An incredible link-up that forces a chilling line through some of the Great Cave's most daunting territory. Start 8m to the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6c
6
Caveman
A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Yardarm
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
8
Magical Mystery Tour
A mighty-fine sea-level traverse that crosses the terrain from the Great Cave to the headland to the south. The climbing is...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E1 5b
9
Rainbow Bridge
Wonderful positions, combined with superb rock and climbing mark out this long sea-level traverse as one of the coastlines best...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E4 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For BERRY HEAD

    Yardarm
    "Certainly an interesting route. Amazing positions and decent gear (take lots of ..." 02/Sep

    Yardarm
    "Well worth 3 stars, fantastic positions, better than Moonraker. More Spacewalkin..." 21/Aug

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