Upper Crag

Adjacent Areas
< The G-Spot  |  Stone Cold Buttress >

Trad
Early morning sun
15 mins
Uphill

This is a hidden gem of a buttress that is only revealed on the last few metres of the approach walk. The crag is not high but is vertical and composed of compact limestone yielding climbing that is both sustained and technical. Protection is just about adequate on most of the routes, but a few are bold. This wall is above the trees and more exposed than the Lower Crag receiving plenty of sun. It is quick drying and suffers little from seepage.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gorgonzola
Take the corner to a ledge and finish up the wall above it.
 VS
2
Yew Tree Rib
Climb the left side of the arete right of the corner of Gorgonzola and then head right to a corner/groove. Finish up this past...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
3
Pinnacle Direct
Climb the pinnacle and wall between the trees.
 VS
4
February Wall
Start at the small yew tree on the left-hand side of the clean wall. Follow the wall and tricky corner to the top.
 
1 Stars
VS
5
Broad Sword
A cracking pitch up the left-to-right slanting weakness of thin corners and overlaps.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3
6
Broad Sword Direct
Start up Broad Sword but climb direct to the top from the jug - scary!
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E4
7
Fine Speeding
A very direct line that finishes up Broad Sword Direct. No side runners at this grade.
 
1 Stars
E5
8
Mutton Dagger
Quality climbing up the centre of the wall finishing past a very old bolt on the headwall.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3
9
Prime Cut
A testing route that starts up Mutton Dagger before breaking out rightwards to a crozzly niche. Go right and finish up a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
10
Cut a Line
Good but bold climbing. Climb the wall to the crozzly niche of Prime Cut. Move left and finish up the small groove and wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4
11
Mint Sauce
A short hard pitch on very compact rock. Start just to the left of the arete and climb up into the base of the clean-cut...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
12
Sir Loin
A good little expedition that traces a diagonal line leftwards from the base of the right arete. The start is a bit puzzling...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
13
Little Corner
The pleasant corner is a little grassy in its upper reaches.
 
1 Stars
VS
14
Central Cracks
The corner to the left of the wall.
 S
15
Flaker
The cracked wall just right of the corner leads to a tree stump. Finish leftwards up a diagonal crack. Do not use the corner at...
 
Technical
HVS
16
The Glory Seekers
Climb up the cracked wall of Flaker until gear can be placed out left in a diagonal crack. Move right and climb the crozzled...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
17
The Walley Hunters
Climb to the prominent undercut arch and then take the wall above its left-hand side to finish.
 
Technical
E1
18
The Arches
A short and sharp number. Climb up to the arch move right (a thread is usually in place) and finish up the tricky but...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
19
Return of the Glory Seekers
An eliminate taking the wall between The Arches and the arete to the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
20
Meerschaum
The stepped corner with a small sapling at its base.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
21
Satori
The next groove and corner just right of Meerschaum.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
22
Too Close for Comfort
Move up to an overlap and then follow it as it curves rightwards to a slim corner/groove. Finish up this.
 E2
23
Damage Case
Climb to a down-pointing spike before heading left to the final slim corner/groove of Too Close for Comfort.
 
Loose
E1
24
Left-hand Siamese Twin
Climb to the down-pointing spike of Damage Case and finish up the corner and crack.
 
Loose
HVS
25
Right-hand Siamese Twin
Climb the groove and cracked wall taking care with some of the rock.
 
Loose
VS
26
Frank Bough's Party
Climb the centre of the wall passing the point where the horizontal crack divides.
 E4
27
Power Pinch
Start just right of the block and climb the seam to the horizontal break. Stand in the break and climb direct to the top. High...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
28
Go Johnny Go
Start 2m right of the flat block and move up directly to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and corner above to finish. A...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
29
Slap and Giggle
An eliminate up the arete and hanging corner.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
30
Custard Crack
A good clean romp up the corner which is adequately protected with large gear. The best easy line here.
 
1 Stars
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For GIGGLESWICK SOUTH

    Tipsy Crack
    "Changed from 5a to , no votes" 27/Mar

    The Arches
    "Think the thread is the same one Austin used...." 12/Jun

    Pitch 'n' Putt
    "This is a sandbag at 6a, 6a+ is more like it." 26/Apr

    Get Out of Town
    "The flake left of the first bolt is now dangerously loose - most of the glue see..." 21/Jun

    Black Swan Rising
    "This is a superb route which is spoiled by some poor bolting. Sorry Dave but I'..." 29/Jun top50

    Moseley Shoals
    "Moseley Shoals will soon be cleaned and rebolted. It's on the list! There was a ..." 04/May

    First Footing
    "A sandbag, unless you have a huge span!" 27/Apr

    Moseley Shoals
    "The first bolt is high and in a poor condition. It would be well worth checking..." 22/Apr

    José Bové
    "Did this route for the second time yesterday and the loose block was still very ..." 05/Jun

    Broad Sword
    "I vaguely remember it feeling a little bold with some technical moves going left..." 07/Oct

    Broad Sword
    "A very difficult E3 and there is a fair bit of 5c. Climbing up the flake/open gr..." 02/Oct

    Silent Laughter
    "How can this be 3*? Nasty lumpy holds on boulder problem start and an artificial..." 24/Jul

    Satori
    "Did it around about the same time as you I guess - just recall that the layaway ..." 30/May

    Chip off the Old Block
    "Agree with Fiend. I'm afarid Dan that if you think that rock is good quality, ..." 01/May

    Par Three
    "contrived at the top but good moves" 01/May

    Match Play
    "As with many of the easier lines here...cr*p. Badly placed last bolt too." 01/May

    Mutton Dagger
    "Excellent, as good as it looks from below if not better. Elegant wall climbing, ..." 27/Apr

    Satori
    "Mate backed off after not making it past the niche low down. Possible flake on t..." 18/Apr

    José Bové
    "It won't "clean up" where it counts. The dodgy block is all or nothing..." 11/Dec

    Harry Limestone
    "Good moves that require an amount of thought." 05/Sep

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