Yew Cogar Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill
Seepage

The left side of the crag is composed of smooth solid rock in its lower half but is a little loose above half-height. The right-hand side of the crag has a fine wall of tufa-covered rock with some technical routes and small but testing overhangs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fringe Benefit
The first line of bolts on the left-hand side of the crag.
 6a
2
Beyond the Fringe
Climb up passing a grassy alcove, before finishing rightwards to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b
3
Yew and Me
Climb steeply just right of Beyond the Fringe and then rightwards to meet Just Another Ordinary Route. Finish direct to the...
 6c+
4
Frenzy
Move rightwards up the stepped overlaps then power up the headwall passing the roof on its left. Avoid the original loose...
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
5
Just Another Ordinary Route
Start just right of the stepped overlaps of Frenzy. Climb powerfully up leftwards, crossing Frenzy, to the sanctuary of a bolt,...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Yew Terrace
A desperate start, which is both technical and powerful, leads to a semi-rest below the roof. Crank over the roof and through...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
7
Yew Torqueture
Start 2m left of the left-facing diagonal overlap. Climb up to a shallow groove and a rest below the first roof. Surmount the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
Against all Odds
Follow the overlap to the break. Move up and right to a bush then pull past a small roof and up to a lower-off.
 
Strong
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
Strictly B Team
A very steep start leads to a hard sequence up the wall to the roof. Pull over this at its widest point then climb direct to...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
10
Empty Rhetoric
1) 6a, 10m. Climb the faint ramp-line leftwards to a shallow groove, which leads to a small roof. Traverse right to a nut belay...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
11
Justin Time
Powerful climbing through a series of small overlaps leads to the traverse of Level Pegging.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
12
Happy Birthday to Yew
A scary and very bold pitch above the lower-off of Justin Time. Belay on the top of the crag.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E8 6c
13
Level Pegging
1) 5c, 10m. If you are one of those perverted climbers that has a fetish for big wide cracks then this should really get three...
 
Pumpy
E4 5c
14
Pegged Out
A fine climb that breaks out right from the bottom of the large fissure of Level Pegging.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
15
Wonderwall
Make bouldery moves through the overlap and then ascend the wall to the break. Powerful climbing through the bulge and up the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
8b
16
Love Sculpture
A stunning route through the steepest part of the crag. Use a pocket at 3m to gain a groove and then climb up through the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
17
Ten Year Itch
The wall and roof give yet another brilliant and hard sport line.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
18
The Power and the Glory
Start at the ochre-stained tufa-streak. Climb the streak, surmount the roof with great difficulty, then move right and up to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
19
Vorsprung Durch Technik
If you know what it means you will realise what a good name it is for this route. Start at the tufa drainpipe. Power up the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
20
Staying Power
Another appropriate name. Climb to a thread at 7m in the next black tufa-streak. Pass this to another thread way above and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
21
Devil's Grip
A brilliant route with a hard start and culminating in a pumpy finish. Start midway between two black streaks. A rogue bolt out...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
22
Cruisin' for a Bruisin' Top 50
One of the best 7b's in the Dales. Sustained climbing up the groove leads to steeper rock. Power up the headwall to the ...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
23
Bustin' the Block
A great and hard trad route. Climb the tufa to undercuts then up the fingery wall above to the lower-off. High in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6b
24
Powerplay
Another good trad line up the leftwards-slanting shallow groove. Undercut up the groove to a thread then make a long move up...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
25
Power in the Balance
Climb the first moves of Powerplay then head up the blank-looking wall above to a tree.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
26
Cavalier Cruncher
Start just left of the next groove. Climb past two pegs to a tree belay. The alternative finish goes up and slightly right from...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
27
Powerless
From a shallow groove move up and then right onto the blunt and blocky arete to a dead yew tree.
 E2 5c
28
Yew Jest
Climb the short bolted pillar to the right of a gully. Thin and technical.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
29
Yew've Got To Roll With It
A very tough traverse of the cliff from left to right. 1) 6a, 25m. Start up Frenzy and then traverse rightwards under the...
 
Strong
Pumpy
E8 6c