Yew Cogar Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The left-hand side of the crag is composed of smooth solid rock in its lower half but is a little loose above half-height. Further right is a fine wall of tufa-cover rock with some technical walls and small-but-testing overhangs. The rock is excellent although due to a lack of traffic, and major seepage in winter, the lines can be dirty.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Beyond the Fringe
20m. The easiest of the true sport climbs at Yew Cogar. Follow the first bit of good rock, passing a grassy alcove, before...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6b+
2
Frenzy
20m. Move rightwards up the stepped-corner then power up the headwall passing the roof on its left. Avoid the original loose...
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
3
Just Another Ordinary Route
18m. Start just right of the stepped-corner of Frenzy. Climb powerfully up leftwards, crossing Frenzy, to the sanctuary of a...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Yew Terrace
20m. A desperate start, which is both technical and powerful, leads to a semi-rest below the roof. Curse the start for using...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
5
Yew Torqueture
20m. Start 2m left of the left-facing stepped-corner system. Climb up to the shallow groove and a rest below the first roof....
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Against all Odds
18m. Follow the stepped-corner to the break. Move up and right to a bush then pull past a small roof and up to a lower-off.
 
Strong
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Strictly B Team
18m. A very steep start leads to a hard sequence up the wall to the roof. Pull over this at its widest point to finish as for...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
8
Empty Rhetoric
1) 6a, 10m. Climb the faint rampline leftwards to a shallow groove which leads to a small roof. Traverse right to a nut belay...
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
Justin Time
12m. Powerful climbing through a series of small overlaps leads to the traverse of Level Pegging. Single-bolt lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
10
Happy Birthday to Yew
20m. Continues above the bolt lower-off of Justin Time.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E8 6c
11
Level Pegging
1) 5c, 10m. If you are one of those perverted climbers that has a fetish for big wide cracks then this should really get three...
 
Pumpy
E4 5c
12
Pegged Out
20m. A stunning route breaking out right from the large fissure of Level Pegging.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
13
Love Sculpture
20m. Another stunning route through the steepest part of the crag. Use a pocket at 3m to gain the black groove then climb up...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
14
Ten Year Itch
20m. A decade on and another excellent line completes a trilogy of superb pitches from Mr. Vickers.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
15
The Power and the Glory
20m. Start at the ochre-stained tufa-streak. Climb the streak, surmount the roof with great difficulty, then move right and up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c+
16
Vorsprung Durch Technik
20m. If you know what it means you will realise what a good name it is for this route. Start at the tufa drainpipe. Power up...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
17
Staying Power
18m. Another appropriate name. Climb to a thread at 7m in the next black tufa-streak. Pass this to another thread way above and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
18
Devil's Grip
16m. Start midway between two black streaks passing 5 bolts. The start is very tight ¤ ? but it is possible to down climb from...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
19
Cruisin' for a Bruisin' Top 50
15m. The most popular route on the crag and one of the better '7b's in the Dales. Mega moves up the groove lead to steeper...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7b
20
Bustin' the Block
15m. A great hard trad route. Climb the tufa to undercuts then up the fingery wall above. High in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6b
21
Powerplay
15m. Another great gear route up the leftwards-slanting shallow groove. Undercut up the groove to a thread then make a long...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
22
Power in the Balance
14m. Do the first moves of Powerplay then up the blank looking wall above to a tree.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
23
Cavalier Cruncher
12m. Start just left of the next groove. Climb past two pegs to a tree belay. The alternative finish goes up and slightly right...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
24
Powerless
12m. From the shallow groove move up and then right onto the blunt and blocky arete to a dead yew tree.
 E2 5c