Central Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Biological Need Area  |  The North Buttress >

Trad
Morning sun
4 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Sheltered

A huge, vertical wall of grey limestone is flanked by the long corner of The Diedre and the undercut wall that bounds the start of the North Buttress. This is the setting for Kilnsey's major offering of traditional climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Peripathetic
Start below the first peg runner on Central Wall. 1) 6b, 29m. Pull up through the low overhang and climb up to the peg on...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
2
Central Wall
A brilliant first pitch with great moves and good rock. 1) 6a, 30m. Start below a short hanging corner. Pull though a bulge on...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
3
White Rushin'
A good bold route. Start as for Central Wall but continue direct through the roof. 1) 6b, 30m. Climb the initial overhang of...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
4
High Octane
A fingery lower pitch is followed by a burly wall and overhang high on the face. Now climbed as a single pitch. Climb bulges...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
5
White Feather
Pull over the lower overhang and climb the serious wall via the white streak moving left to a shattered pillar and bolt. Hard...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Claws
A classic historical product. â... I decided to put three or four holds in a line on the top pitch which made it exactly the...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
7
The Diedre Top 50
The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
8
Worlds in Collision
A well-positioned route that wends its way up the wall to the right of The Diedre. 1) 5c, 30m. From 8m up The Diedre traverse...
 
2 Stars
E4 5c
9
Ken
Start on the arete and follow a direct line up the grey wall just right of the corner of The Diedre to merge with the final...
 
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6a
10
Ice Spurt Special
A harder and more serious direct on Worlds in Collision. 1) 6b, 28m. Climb Ken to join Worlds in Collision and follow it to its...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
11
Division of Labour
A hard and spectacular line. Start right of the arete. 1) 6b, 28m. Climb steeply up the wall to a roof and move left and up to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

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