Biological Need Area

Adjacent Areas
< Optional Extra Area  |  Central Wall >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
4 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A subtly-featured and compact grey wall. The area has some extremely sustained and fingery test-pieces both sport and trad - including the classic Biological Need, plus some powerful offerings on the right. Some routes stay dry in the rain as long as seepage is not present. It can be cold and breezy at times and during the warmer months midges are problematic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bird's Nest Crack
The steep and widening crack to a grassy finish and tree belay. Abseil off from the tree.
 E1 5b
2
Another Clip in the Wall
An eliminate line up the rib to the right of Bird's Nest Crack that is graded for not bridging into the crack on the left.
1 user comment
 7a+
3
Picnic on Hanging Rock
Follow thin cracks and move right to a thread before following a line of threads up another crack to a lower-off.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
Exponential Exhaustion
A superb direct line up the wall. Climb the wall past a peg to a second peg. Continue up into a niche and take a breather. The...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
5
Mantissa
Climb boldly up to a good peg and then follow an rising traverse line leftwards to join and finish as for Picnic at Hanging...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Biological Need
A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
7
The Yorkshire Ripper
A difficult route leading straight up from the base of the ramp of Zero Option. Sharp, fingery climbing leads straight up to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
8b
8
Zero Option
Re-gearing has made this virtually a clip-up. The climbing is also much harder since the filling in of a chipped hold at the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
9
Soft Option
A fine climb with three very difficult sections including the crux of Zero Option. Start up the rib right of Zero Option climb...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
8a
10
Massala Martyr
Steep and powerful climbing up the bulging wall starting just to the left of the dry-stone wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
11
A Smarter Martyr
A direct on Massala Martyr. A boulder problem start goes direct, to the right of the first two bolts. The upper section uses...
 
Strong
8b
12
Mistaken Identity
An old line up the full height of the wall with two possible starts that breach the lower overhangs. 1) 7a, 12m. Start up...
 E5 7a
13
Warlord
The long groove with a severely undercut base has a number of options to access it. 1) 6c/A1 5c, 30m. A powerful bouldery start...
 E2 5c
14
Exodus
Start up Warlord Direct and then climb on to finish at the Massala Martyr lower-off.
 E8 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccinaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

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