Cow Cave to Space Buttress

Trad
Lots of sun!
6 mins
Level
Sheltered

The entrance of Cow Cave is a popular place for gearing-up. The climbs in this area cover a broad grade range but suffer from polish, although protection is usually at hand.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Slot
A burly pitch that follows a jamming crack up the corner on the left of the square-cut buttress that is perched above a ledge....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS 5a
2
Barn Owl Crack Top 50
One of Chudleigh's well-worn favourites that follows the wide snaking crack left of Cow Cave. Start below a short 3m wall...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVD
3
Ash Tree Buttress
A retiring little pitch that makes a nice continuation to Barn Owl Crack. Walk 8m right from the finish of Barn Owl Crack and...
 
1 Stars
Strong
VD
4
Reek
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions when the polish will make it feel a whole...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
5
Twang Top 50
Stylish climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers. Start just left of the cave below a ledge at 3m. 1) 5b,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5b
6
Loot
The wide, overhanging crack-system sprouting from the left side of Cow Cave. Start on the left of the cave entrance. Head for...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5b
7
Smoke Gets In Your Eyes
The offset grooves right of the cave entrance are overcome by a perplexing series of moves. Start at the base of the grooves....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
8
Guy Fawkes Crack
The wide crack right of the cave entrance is entertaining. Start at the base of the crack. The crack is steep to enter but...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
9
TNT
A short and popular exercise. Start below a block at 3m just right of the wide crack of Guy Fawkes Crack. Gain the block and...
 
Technical
VS 5a
10
Hot Ice
A short but serious arete. Start at the arete left of the smooth wall climbed by Seventh Veil. Slick and balancy moves up the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Seventh Veil
A popular though highly-polished wall climb that has a tough initial section. Start in the centre of the face below a small...
 
Technical
VS 4c
12
Seventh Veil Direct
The left side of the wall direct is a touch nasty at the top and rather slick. A popular top-rope problem.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1 5b
13
Salome
The ramp-line that slopes up left from the toe of the face is a very popular climb. Start at the toe of the buttress. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Major Tom
A wild and powerful trip through some very impressive terrain with good protection and for the most part excellent holds. Start...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 6a
15
Saturn Five
The central line of weakness through the stacked overhangs is a spectacular climb on jugs, a couple of which are a touch...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For CHUDLEIGH ROCKS

    Wogs
    "Chris Hurlock c.hurlock@harbourchallenge.co.uk Great climb polished at the b..." 15/Dec top50

    Twang
    "This was HVS in the Nick White CC guide. E1 seems fair now the peg has gone and ..." 22/May top50

    Smoke Gets In Your Eyes
    "short, desperate, insecure, awkward, but still strangely enjoyable." 26/Aug

    Wogs
    "Rock is in a bad way, polished to a high sheen in the bottom half of the route." 09/Aug top50

    Mortality Crisis
    "There are two directs on this. Most obvious- go straight from the peg at the top..." 22/Apr

    The Spider
    "Peg on first pitch has been chopped through the eye. Makes the pitch bolder as t..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Great climb with 3 wonderfully varied first pitches and then a relaxed scramble ..." 20/Jun top50

    Scar
    "Watch out on the first pitch. If it ever was 4a, it is not now. VS is right thou..." 03/Feb

    Wogs
    "Horribly polished & not much fun. A star for the line, I suppose." 20/Dec top50

    Inkerman Groove
    "Good clean fun. Great gear, Although getting rather polished." 13/Nov top50

    Machete Wall
    "Looks like a hefty chunk has come off the bottom of the final groove (just above..." 09/Jun top50

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