Cocytus Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Downhill
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

Down the slope from the Ferocity Wall is another fine buttress consisting of a series of grooves set in vertical orange and black streaked walls capped with some steep roofs. Trad and sport routes mix here, offering some extremely technical wall climbs that lead to steeper finishes. Some of the routes stay dry in light rain. Guidebook page 312.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dumb Blonde
10m. Hard and thin climbing gains a big block after which an easy traverse right gains a ledge and lower-off.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
2
American Express
Tendon-twanging technicalities are the order of the day on this fine micro challenge. Start just left of the slim groove of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
3
Cocytus Top 50
A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
4
More Steam, Bigger Women
17m. Great climbing up the thin, technical, orange-streaked wall. The first 8m is the crux, above the wall is steeper but with...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
5
Torbay or Not Torbay
10m. An eliminate up the arete gives extremely sequency and insecure climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
6
Blonde Bombshell
A hard and serious lead, taking on the 'blonde' wall left of the huge overhanging corner. Start below and right of a lone bolt...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
7
Acheron
Good physical climbing, despite the rather vegetated appearance from below. Start by scrambling up the slope, past the base of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Cocytus, More Steam Connection
17m. A useful link up that gives one of the best pitches on the wall and at a reasonable grade. Climb to the second bolt on...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
9
Blazing Apostles
16m. The arete leads to hard moves up and right to gain the groove. Change angle and swing across the huge roof. Either belay...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
10
The Shroud
18m. The big, steep corner is disappointing.
 
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Boy George
17m. A very steep arete with little respite. High in the grade.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
  • Latest Comments

    For ANSTEY'S COVE

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Blazing Apostles
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    American Express
    "THIN but all the holds are there...good route just a pity it doesn't go on longe..." 19/Jul

    Empire of the Sun
    "There is a new first bolt" 26/Jun top50

    The Lynch
    "Brutal, utterly utterly brutal..." 06/Sep top50

    The Waffle Supremacy
    "Unfairly maligned in my opinion, this is an excellent route, slightly spoiled by..." 13/Jun

    Big Jim
    "Nice little route with a powerful start and delicate upper section." 10/Sep

    Rawhide
    "Now re-geared and cleaned (two huge blocks came off it), it's not a bad route, i..." 12/Jul

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