Main Wall

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Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The main attraction at Maeshafn is this appealing wall of vertical thin cracks and the clean wall of excellent rock to its right. The climbs are very sustained and rely on small wires for protection. The left-hand side is a popular place that features a reasonable set of off-vertical routes with some technical climbing and the odd run-out section.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Joker
Pull steeply through the lower wall and then follow a leftwards line across the blank slab to the top. Bold.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
HVD
2
Thrutch
A hard start and bold finish gives this route a bit of character.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
HS
3
Bumble Arete
An extended boulder problem up the vague arete to a ledge, then finish through the small overlap above.
3 user comments
 
Technical
E1
4
Jocca
Bridge elegantly up the slim leftward-trending groove-line to reach a thin crack, which is followed to the top.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1
5
Brewing up with Les Williams
Varied and sustained climbing above a bold start. Move up to a peg then pull steeply past this to small holds and good gear....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
6
Moomba
An alternative finish to Inspector Gadget that avoids its long reach by moving left at the undercut to join Brewing up with Les...
2 user comments
 
Technical
E4
7
Inspector Gadget
This one-move wonder is centred on an undercut at half-height. Climb easily to the undercut then make a long stretch for some...
2 user comments
 
Reachy
Strong
E4
8
Apex
Climb into the short steep corner beneath the tree then move left onto the arete and follow this, over an overlap, to the top.
4 user comments
 E1
9
Layback on Me
The attractive layback flake is good but it ends too soon at a ledge. Finish easily up the slabby wall above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
10
Rambler
A smart well-protected pitch up the short corner and V-groove.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S
11
Puppy Power Top 50
The best of the easier routes on the steep slab. Climb a thin leftward-trending crack to reach a shallow corner that is climbed...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
12
Yobo
A worthwhile pitch up the rib and cracks just left of the vegetation to a rightward finish. The mantelshelf finish is the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS
13
Flying Block
The testing crack-line, right of the vegetated groove, requires big arms and a positive attitude to surmount the overhang.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
14
Royal Plume
The thin crack is continually challenging especially at the mid-height overlap. Finish direct through the narrowest section of...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2
15
The Minstrel Top 50
A finger-sized crack splitting the highest section of the main wall epitomises limestone crack climbing at its best - well...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1
16
Mathematical Workout Top 50
The perfect route for its size with technical and interesting climbing from the moment you leave the ground. Follow the thin...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3
17
Calculus
A good pitch up the arete with an awkward move through the overlap. The upper wall is climbed left of the arete and although...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4
18
The Secret
A nice line following the corner. The start is awkward and polished but soon leads to a good rest and a peg. Pull past the peg...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
19
The Corner
A confusingly-named route that traverses right from the peg on The Secret to reach a good foot-ledge in the middle of the wall....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
20
Cousin M
A highball boulder problem with a desperate sequence up the wall to reach the foot-ledge at the end of The Corner traverse....
4 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2
21
Think a Moment
A technical exercise in crimping, with no real protection, taking a vague line up the wall. Climb Laxix to the small overlap,...
4 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6
22
Laxix
Excellent climbing that has been slightly spoilt by recent rockfalls. Follow the rightward trending crack-line up the wall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
23
Knotty Problem
A good route that has become slightly harder due to recent rockfalls. Mantelshelf onto a flat-topped flake and continue up the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1
24
So She Did
A bold eliminate. Follow Knotty Problem to the lower rock scar then traverse right using stuck-on holds. When these disappear,...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3
25
Baraouche
A short-lived but enjoyable pitch following the rightward-trending crack to a ledge and then the thin crack above to the top.
3 user comments
 
Technical
E2
26
Pengrail
Climb the short crack and corner with a testing move half way.
2 user comments
 E1
27
The Green Wall
The centre of the green wall has no protection.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
28
Sita
A pitch up the crack and arete.
 
1 Stars
E2
29
Yellow
Climb trending left then right to beneath the bulging arete - nut on left. Move up onto a ledge on the arete before moving...
 
1 Stars
E1
30
Alex's Crack
An eliminate line but with good climbing. There is a difficult and reachy move at half-height using a small finger-pocket. The...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E5
31
Main Wall Girdle
12m. Originally done in four pitches this exercise in horizontal movement starts up Jocca then traverses right to belay on the...
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For MAESHAFN QUARRY

    Calculus
    "Fantastic route, delicate start up the arete followed by a hard move past the ov..." 10/Jul

    Flying Block
    "a couple of large loose bits after first couple of meters" 13/Jun

    Shattered Crack
    "Feels a bit artificial not to bridge out to the right wall - which makes it much..." 24/Jul top50

    Rambler
    "agreed i used this as descent route only worth v diff max" 22/Feb

    The Minstrel
    "Very good route, but be careful with the high crux as the key hold is loose! oth..." 29/Nov top50

    The Minstrel
    "Very nice route - tiring low down with technical finish" 08/Jun top50

    The Minstrel
    "Excellent route. Nothing too technical but the grade's probably right." 02/Apr top50

    Laxix
    "Really nice route... bomber wire above the first tiny overlap protects the route..." 17/Aug

    Wanderer
    "There's no way this is VS 4c. The ledge system is about 4a, the traverse is eas..." 12/Aug

    Little Finger Jam
    "The crux is pretty well protected with small wires, then no more meaningful prot..." 22/Jul

    Mathematical Workout
    "Excellent route on great rock! Good pro for the bouldery crux with distinctly w..." 07/Jun top50

    Mathematical Workout
    "Ace route!" 02/Jun top50

    Joker
    "Once the pull up at the start and key glass like foot-hold are despatched its go..." 27/May

    Running with the Wolf
    "Climbing is very fingery and needs careful though before the thread below the ov..." 08/May

    Little Finger Jam
    "Way harder than VS, more like tough HVS or easy E1. Not much of a route anyway." 03/Apr

    Rambler
    "This without doubt VD and no more." 19/Jan

    The Minstrel
    "An excellent, classic, route. Good climbing all the way from the ground until th..." 19/Oct top50

    Rambler
    "Hugely over-graded; this is easily the easiest route on the crag. How this can b..." 11/Oct

    The Secret
    "The peg is old and higher up than the decription implies." 11/Sep

    Shattered Crack
    "Quite easy for the grade and not as strenuous as it looks. Good little route tho..." 02/Sep top50

    Think a Moment
    "Did this route and "Cousin M" last year, don`t think it`s worthy of E6..." 11/Aug

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