Sunnyside Area

Adjacent Areas
< Rubberbandman Area  |  None >

Trad
Afternoon sun
35 mins
Uphill
Windy

The final section of Craig Arthur, just before the descent gully, is a roof-capped wall of good rock. The wall has a selection of harder sport pitches and a couple of good trad lines. The area is the first reached on the approach - at the far right-hand end of the cliff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scrapyard Things
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the dodgy-looking flake-crack on the left-hand side of a detached pillar to its top. Proceed up the wall...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Loose
E1
2
Double Crossbones
1) 5c, 12m. A good little pitch up excellent rock, past a peg in a horizontal break, to a fluttery shallow scoop.2) 5a,...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E3
3
Delaware Slide
A good and demanding pitch. Climb up good rock past a thread and move right up a little ramp to an overhang (peg). Pass the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
4
These Foolish Things
A brilliant technical route with hard moves at the top, although there are also some tricky sections lower down. There is a...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
5
Gates of the Golden Dawn
A fabulous line up the front of the buttress finishing in a wild position through the capping roofs. Better if started up These...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E5
6
The Deadly Trap
An old line that is now rarely attempted.1) 5b, 20m. Pitch 1 of Gates of the Golden Dawn.2) 5c, 21m. Move up towards...
2 user comments
 E3
7
Black Poppies
The hardest route on the buttress has some difficult fingery climbing on the lower wall and the finish is a real stopper unless...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
8
Chilean Moon
A worthwhile route but not as good as its neighbours. Pulling through the lower bulge at the start is hard. Higher up there is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b
9
Acapella
26m. A partly bolted line directly up the rightside ogf the buttress.
 
Pumpy
E5 6b
10
Chills of Apprehension
A good natural line up the right side of the buttress. Climb up the rightward-trending line through the bulge (pegs and a...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
E4
11
Lemon Kerred
A short semi-sport line to a lower-off on the tree.
2 user comments
 
Technical
E3
12
Uncrossed
Climb direct up a rib, passing a ledge, to the bulge.
 7a
13
Those Stumbling Words
A direct line through two overlaps. A bouldery start (avoidable on the left) leads through poor rock in the mid-section to a...
 
Loose
7a
14
Sunnyside Up Mix
A stunning pitch up the left-hand side of the buttress. The start is hard, the wall above is technical but the finish is as...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
15
Acapulco
Climb directly up the right-hand side of the buttress via the left-hand side of a huge ledge. It shares its start with Chills...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
Jam Spread
The short difficult bulge, shallow groove and wall.
 6b+
17
Freshly Dug
A pleasant face climb at far end of the wall.
 6a
18
Craig Arthur Girdle
1) 5a, 10m. No description yet.2) 5a, 10m. No description yet.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For CRAIG ARTHUR

    Delaware Slide
    "Really fun climbing, which deserves more attention. Lower thread is poor, but &q..." 09/Jun

    The Fall and Decline
    "E3 5c. good climbing in the first pitch,pulled a toaster size block off on the l..." 10/Jul

    The Fall and Decline
    "Top pitch contains dangerous loose blocks andy Stewart" 25/Sep

    Survival of the Fastest
    "There used to be a peg runner that protected the crux and with this in place the..." 26/Aug

    Stratagem
    "A well-worth route. Would give it 2 stars as opposed to the 1 star given in CL. ..." 24/Aug

    Survival of the Fastest
    "Confused by Tyler's comment as I led this on Saturday and E5 6a felt spot on. T..." 24/Aug

    Punch and Judy
    "The loss of a hold has made the crux of this route a bit harder, possibly soft E..." 12/Oct

    Digitron
    "Definitely agree that the finishing move from the jug up to the sapling is harde..." 29/Sep top50

    Back Yard Holiday
    "Ah yes - I have to admit that it was my fat arse which snapped that thread almos..." 26/Jun

    Back Yard Holiday
    "Thread no longer in place. Long reaches, old bolt, some dodgy rock. No stars in ..." 25/Jun

    A Touch of Class
    "Where did the 5c come from?" 03/Apr

    Tito
    "Good climbing But felt like 5c to me too" 24/Aug

    Tito
    "Probably a bit of a sandbag at the original grade of E1. E2 5b seems about right..." 18/Jun

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