Back in Black Area

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Sport
Lots of sun!
8 mins
Uphill
Windy

A fine, quiet section of the crag with some great sport routes and a few trad lines. The left-hand side consists of a superb wall with some enticing small roofs, grooves and scoops. To the right, a huge low-level ivy-clad roof is the dominating feature. This end of the crag can pick up a breeze which is a bonus in warm weather.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hell Hole
At the far left of the crag is a small hidden 'hole'. Squirm up this and then either return to the path or continue up Hell's...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
2
Hello Arete
The left arete of Hell's Chimney has a loose start.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
HVS
3
Hell's Own Variation
Climb halfway up Hell's Chimney then move onto the left wall to finish.
2 user comments
 VD
4
Tongue Pie
An interesting little route. Start inside Hell's Chimney, then traverse right above the lip of the overhang to reach a thin...
2 user comments
 HVS
5
Hell's Chimney
The wide chimney, with the leaning block in it, is a surprisingly popular venture for beginners.
2 user comments
 Diff
6
It's Yours
A route of contrasting halves. Power through the bulge on undercuts, then avoid the temptation to step into Punishment of...
5 user comments
 
Technical
Strong
7b+
7
Punishment of Luxury
Butch cranking up the thread-decorated pocketed crack soon eases. Can be taken direct or by moving in from the left.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4
8
Elite Syncopations Top 50
A fine direct line up the buttress. Move up out of the alcove with difficulty and continue without much respite to join Back in...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
9
Bolt from the Blue
A good way up the wall with a technical crux sequence. A few wires are needed but they are easy to place. It is 7b+ as a sport...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6
10
Line of Fire
Climb up to huge holds above the C-shaped flake. Move up to some flakes and make a long hard reach rightwards to enter the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
Loose
6c+
11
Train to Hell
A good and challenging route with interesting and contrasting climbing. Climb up through the lower bulge to a good hold. Move...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
12
Cured
Climb up to the undercut flake from the right, then move left to small crimps and make a BIG move for a distant edge. Pull into...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Crimpy
7b+
13
Stiff and Sticky
Slightly superseded by the previous route. Climb Sticky Toffee to the standing position on top of the flake-crack. Continue...
3 user comments
 
Reachy
Loose
E3
14
Fine Feathered Fink
Good powerful climbing on side-pulls and undercuts. It is easy to get wrong handed at the start.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
15
Gwennan
This route has lost a hold and has not been reclimbed hence the grade is unconfirmed - formerly 8a. A strenuous route with one...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
8a+
16
The Fog
Vicious finger pockets in the steep bulging crack prove a test of not only strength, but resistance to pain. Judicious use of...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E6
17
Misty Vision
The right-hand finish to The Fog is a much better finish, assuming enough skin is left on the fingers after the crux of The Fog...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E6
18
The Sound and the Fury
An impressive climb featuring some intensely powerful moves through the bulges leading to a crux snatch right for a poor...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
19
Elite Deviation
The link joining the powerful crux of Elite Syncopations into the technical crux of Bolt from the Blue. The sport grade assumes...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
20
Back in Black
A brilliant line featuring sustained and strenuous manoeuvres on excellent rock. Move up to a juggy rail and then left up the...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
21
Statement of Ewes
A good link-up that takes in the best climbing on this section of the crag. Climb Train to Hell to the good hold over the lower...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
22
Sticky Toffee
A pleasant way up this wall after a burly start. Make a difficult initial pull to reach a big jug on the right. Move up to the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c+
23
Ring Piece
A poor route with a very hard bouldery start that leads to easier juggy climbing up large hollow-sounding flakes. The lower-off...
 
Technical
Strong
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For DINBREN

    So Lucky
    "This had been bolted some time ago, (not by me) 3 bolts. Has now been finished 4..." 13/Jun

    It's Yours
    "The Project to the left has been climbed and is called The sound and the fury 8b..." 31/Aug

    The Orgasmatron
    "Glad this one is getting some attention. Nice one Sam" 04/Aug

    The Orgasmatron
    "I repeated this from the ground today. Powerful boulder problem start utilising ..." 29/Jul

    Driller Thriller
    "Route to the left of Driller Thriller " Trailer Trash" F6b. 23.05.12 ..." 26/May

    Dyperspace
    "I think a hold under the roof has evolved making this slightly easier since it w..." 20/Sep

    Cubase
    "Phew! Thought it was just me that found this desperate! Thought the boulder prob..." 15/Sep

    Big Mouth Strikes Again
    "Another forgotten route revived by Charlton Chestwig" 16/Aug

    Big Mouth Strikes Again
    "Now is an excellent clean, reachy 7a after rebolting. Thanks to GG" 14/Aug

    Quick Flash
    "Route to the right, behind ash tree "Wonderwall" F6c+/7a. cool moves,..." 22/Jul

    The Rivals
    "Yeah, I ended up doing it again before we left without the hold - you´re probabl..." 15/Jun

    Highway
    "There seemed to be only one obvious line and one obvious rest on the right which..." 09/Jun top50

    Highway
    "There are two variations on this route and they should probably both be describe..." 09/Jun top50

    Resist and Exist
    "Good easy warm up route." 26/May

    Cured
    "A great route with really cool moves. realistically i think 7b but happy to t..." 01/May

    Highway
    "Some good hard climbing and nice solid rock for a change ;) like the buouxesque ..." 12/Apr top50

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