For climbers the limestone cliffs at Swanage offer unique climbing experiences in both traditional and sport modes of ascent. Much of the climbing is steep and overhanging, especially in the higher grades. Overall the style complements perfectly the more technical routes found on Portland. Indeed, some of the venues, such as Stair Hole and Blacker's Hole, offer incredible roofs of a scale not breached elsewhere in the Country. However not all the climbs are on such rugged terrain and some of the most popular venues are the bolted quarries at Dancing Ledge and Winspit, plus the gentler sectors such as Subluminal and the Cattle Troughs, which offer beginners the chance to break through.
This database contains all the routes from the 2005 Dorset Rockfax. It is up to date to June 2005 and the grades, stars and page references are all synchronised with that edition of the book.
Routes
515 trad routes (D...7c+)
334 sport routes (2...1)
9 boulder problems (V4...V10)
55 dws routes (E1...7c)
50 of the Best Routes 
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
| Crag (click for details) | No. of Routes | Grade Range | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page | ||||
| Lulworth A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue.... |
115 |
| Trad and Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 10 mins |
Windy Restricted Access |
250 | ||||
| Winspit A sport climbing quarry with many great technical wall climbs. Sheltered from... |
78 |
| Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Up and Down 20 mins |
276 | |||||
| Seacombe The low walls of Seacombe's eastern reaches are home to some fine little... |
9 |
| DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Downhill 20 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | ||||
| Hedbury The Hedbury and Smokey Hole area encompasses four very different crags to the... |
46 |
| DWS |
Afternoon sun |
Up and Down 30 mins |
289 | |||||
| Hidden Quarry This delightful area is a recently appraised addition, and, despite an approach... |
11 |
| DWS |
Morning sun |
Up and Down 25 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- | ||||
| Dancing Ledge The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper... |
87 |
| Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 25 mins |
Dry in the Rain |
298 | ||||
| Guillemot Ledge A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil... |
42 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 25 mins |
Abseil Windy |
312 | ||||
| Cormorant Ledge Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and... |
4 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 25 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Restricted Access |
235 | ||||
| Blackers Hole Another varied area with a huge and spectacular cave home to the most... |
48 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 45 mins |
Tidal Windy |
326 | ||||
| Fisherman's Ledge Fisherman’s Ledge is one of the most popular and important areas at Swanage.... |
105 |
| DWS |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 40 mins |
Abseil Windy |
339 | ||||
| The Promenade In recent times The Promenade has been re-equipped and a significant number of... |
109 |
| Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 30 mins |
Abseil Dry in the Rain Windy |
354 | ||||
| Cattle Troughs The Cattle Troughs Area is popular with novices and beginners although it is... |
36 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 25 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy |
364 | ||||
| Boulder Ruckle The white and yellow striped walls of the Boulder Ruckle make up the showpiece... |
126 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 20 mins |
Abseil Windy |
374 | ||||
| Subluminal The low white line of sea cliff ‘under the light’ is the enchanting area of... |
92 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 10 mins |
Abseil Windy |
405 | ||||
| Tilly Whim The diminutive caves of Tilly Whim are short, on good rock, and are mostly set... |
5 |
| Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Up and Down 10 mins |
Tidal Windy |
- |
