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Dorset

Portland is justifiably famous for the wealth of quality sport climbing available on its lofty white cliffs. The West Coast in particular has now become one of the UK's best venues for well-bolted sport routes across the grades. The East Coast offers bouldering and deep water soloing into the mix as well as serving up its own excellent set of sport routes including many in the easier grades.
Swanage offer unique climbing experiences in both traditional and sport modes of ascent. Much of the climbing is steep and overhanging, especially in the higher grades. Overall the style complements perfectly the more technical routes found on Portland. Indeed, some of the venues, such as Stair Hole and Blacker's Hole, offer incredible roofs of a scale not breached elsewhere in the Country. However not all the climbs are on such rugged terrain and some of the most popular venues are the bolted quarries at Dancing Ledge and Winspit, plus the gentler sectors such as Subluminal and the Cattle Troughs, which offer beginners the chance to break through.
This database contains all the routes from the Dorset Rockfax.

Routes

582 trad routes (D...7c+)
1562 sport routes (1...8c)
169 boulder problems (f3+...f7C+)
106 dws routes (HVS...f5+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Blacknor North
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with...
64
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

15 mins

 
Blacknor Central
Blacknor Central faces south east and is a good-morning-sun venue. It suffers...
74
--^^
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Up and Down

13 mins

 
Blacknor South
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful...
53
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

12 mins

 
Blacknor Beach
30
^--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Blacknor Far South
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the...
55
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Battleship Edge
This was the first area to be retro-bolted and it has become the most popular...
65
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Battleship Back Cliff
The Back Cliff has some superb long pitches with fingery flints and...
80
^^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

11 mins

 
Wallsend North
Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North...
127
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

10 mins

 
Wallsend South
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls...
115
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

20 mins

 
Coastguard North
Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard...
43
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

13 mins

 
Coastguard South
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with...
69
_-^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Tidal
White Hole
This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good...
58
--^^
DWS
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Lighthouse Area
On the east coast of the southern tip of the Isle are four small areas nestling...
61
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Cave Hole
Running up the east coast from the southern tip of Portland is a series of low,...
74
_^^^
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Tidal
Beeston Cliff
Beeston Cliff is a fine series of interesting and secluded bays with some...
57
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Godnor
The adjoining sections of Godnor South and North are an isolated section of...
44
-^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Neddyfields
A popular and sheltered crag with some decent routes and a host of boulder...
88
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

5 mins

Sheltered
Cheyne Cliff
The main section is a superb wall, covered in fantastic flowstone and orange...
31
---^
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
Dungecroft Quarry
Dungecroft Quarry is a very long, but short escarpment composed of, for the...
43
^^^-
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
Lost Valley
A hidden ravine with a good selection of sheltered sport routes that are worth...
41
-^^-
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

3 mins

Sheltered
The Cuttings
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking...
232
^^^^
Boulder
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

8 mins

Sheltered
Nicodemus Knob
Set well away from the main climbing areas on Portland is this curious feature...
4
_--_
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

 
Lulworth
A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue....
115
-^^^
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

5 mins

Restricted Access
Winspit
A sport climbing quarry with many great technical wall climbs. Sheltered from...
78
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Sheltered
Seacombe
The low walls of Seacombe's eastern reaches are home to some fine little...
9
----
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Hedbury
The Hedbury and Smokey Hole area encompasses four very different crags to the...
46
--^^
DWS
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

30 mins

Sheltered
Hidden Quarry
This delightful area is a recently appraised addition, and, despite an approach...
11
_---
DWS
Morning sun
Up and Down

25 mins

Tidal
Dancing Ledge
The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper...
86
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Guillemot Ledge
A huge wall with several routes which are the longest at Swanage. Abseil...
42
_^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Cormorant Ledge
Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and...
4
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Blackers Hole
Another varied area with a huge and spectacular cave home to the most...
48
_--^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

45 mins

Tidal
Fisherman's Ledge
Fisherman’s Ledge is one of the most popular and important areas at Swanage....
105
--^^
DWS
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

40 mins

Abseil
The Promenade
In recent times The Promenade has been re-equipped and a significant number of...
109
--^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

30 mins

Abseil
Cattle Troughs
The Cattle Troughs Area is popular with novices and beginners although it is...
36
-^--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Boulder Ruckle
The white and yellow striped walls of the Boulder Ruckle make up the showpiece...
126
-^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

15 mins

Abseil
Subluminal
The low white line of sea cliff ‘under the light’ is the enchanting area of...
91
^^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Abseil
Tilly Whim
The diminutive caves of Tilly Whim are short, on good rock, and are mostly set...
5
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

10 mins

Tidal
  • Access Issues for Dorset


  • Latest Comments

    For Dorset

    Superfly Guy (Coastguard North)
    "Lovely route, powerful lower down and delicate higher up. Good line, good positi..." 22/May

    Gorillas in the Mist (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "Thread at start of pocketed traverse replaced 17.5.15 but the one that used to b..." 17/May

    Director's Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "This is an ok route, the first pitch crux is hard - I ended up climbing to the r..." 26/Apr

    Think About It (Winspit)
    "Joe Nelson nelson5_uk@yahoo.co.uk The big loose fin is no longer there making ..." 08/Apr

    Road Rage (Cheyne Cliff)
    "I replaced the fixed rope in spring 2014." 08/Sep

    Sanfte Kuss (Blacknor North)
    "mistook this for is vic there- got a big shock - it's desperate!" 01/Sep

    1789 (Wallsend South)
    "The large flake at 5m is disintegrating. Cleaned up as much as I could but some ..." 28/Aug

    Rocket from the Crypt (Cheyne Cliff)
    "See warning about Drowning on Dry Land. Rocket from the Crypt is still there, bu..." 26/Aug

    Snowdrop (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Did this again yesterday. No stake at the top (used a rock belay and the stake ..." 25/Aug

    Infernal Din (The Cuttings)
    "At last! What an effort! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third..." 19/Aug

    D Sharp (Fisherman's Ledge)
    "Possibly a large block has come away leaving a lot of calcite rock and a slightl..." 16/Aug

    Warm Love (Winspit)
    "Drifterjoe nelson5_uk@yahoo.co.uk Last bolt before the top is becoming slightl..." 06/Jul

    Levitation by Proxy (The Cuttings)
    "A one move wonder, but at least its an interesting one!" 28/May

    Jo (Boulder Ruckle)
    "I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fant..." 25/May

    7a+ Took Me Lung (Winspit)
    "The chain is broken on this beware. Someone had tried to just link it back toget..." 21/Apr

    Isis (Cattle Troughs)
    "**** WARNING **** THIS CLIMB IS WRONGLY DESCRIBED IN BOTH TEXT AND TOPO IN THE 2..." 21/Apr

    The Indirect Route (Subluminal)
    "Solo top roped a number of routes including Paralysis, Stroof and Philatus. This..." 02/Apr

    Vertical Thrill (Blacknor Beach)
    "The belay in the large block at the top have shifted significantly in the last f..." 22/Aug

    The Tea-Cake Path (Blacknor North)
    "Flowstone veneer feels hollow in places, do the route before it falls down! Good..." 18/Aug

    Old Faithful (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Lovely route, and very steep - my second dropped a karabiner from the very last ..." 18/Aug

    Finale Groove (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Just as good as I remember" 25/Jul top50

    England's Dreaming (Blacknor North)
    "Had a look at this yesterday- the entire top section of tufa is detached- climb ..." 25/Jul top50

    Slip Road (Subluminal)
    "I love this climb (been off it more times than on - both lead and second). This ..." 08/Jul

    All the Shakespearoes (Subluminal)
    "Climbed a variation of my own invention. Climb through the lower overhang and a ..." 08/Jul

    Pining for Glossop (Blacknor South)
    "Much preferred this to sacred angel: pleasantly sustained and interesting moves...." 01/Jul

    Wax on Wheels (Blacknor Far South)
    "Wonder if this has lost holds at the break? There is some rock scarring there. T..." 01/Jul

    The Grim Reaper (Boulder Ruckle)
    "Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After..." 11/Jun

    Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti (Battleship Back Cliff)
    "26/5/2013 Lower section is covered in dried mud. Best avoided." 28/May

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