Devon

There is a lot of climbing in Devon ranging from the slabs, culm and granite of the North Coast on well known crag, to the high tors of Dartmoor and the wild lines at Berry Head.
This database contains the routes in the West Country Climbs Rockfax.

Routes

242 trad routes (M...E9)
52 sport routes (6a...8c)
114 dws routes (E1...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Baggy Point
The jutting prows of Baggy Point have for many decades been the traditional...
25
-^--
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Blackchurch
The brooding nature of the Blackchurch's northerly aspect, green tinge of...
8
_---
Trad
No sun
Downhill

25 mins

Seepage
Smoothlands
Smoothlands is an extremely impressive sheet of culm, and the climbs on them...
2
___-
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

25 mins

Tidal
Dyer's Lookout
Dyer's Lookout is an extremely impressive sheet of culm, and the climbs on it...
6
_---
Trad
Evening sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Screda Point
The jagged promontory of Screda Poin offers up some fine pitches on excellent...
10
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Tidal
Speke's Mill Mouth
A lovely little section of cliff set well back from the sea and a useful escape...
1
__-_
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

15 mins

Sheltered
Gull Rock
The Main Slab is a smooth sheet of low-angled culm set in a sunny position that...
10
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

Tidal
Cornakey Cliff
Cornakey Cliff is composed of a series of overlapping slabs of generally poor...
3
_--_
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

25 mins

Tidal
Vicarage Cliff
Vicarage Cliff is one of the most pleasant and least serious of the Culm...
9
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

30 mins

Tidal
Oldwalls' Point
Oldwalls' Point holds one of the least trodden bits of classic culm, in the...
2
__-_
Trad
No sun
Downhill

40 mins

Tidal
Chudleigh Rocks
Chudleigh Rocks has a long history of climbing and has provided the learning...
37
-^^-
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

6 mins

Sheltered
Torbryan Quarry
Another attraction for sport climbers in Devon is Torbryan Quarry. Although...
15
__--
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access
Haytor
Haytor is one of Devon’s most popular tourist attractions and rightly so. The...
25
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Hound Tor
The jumble of boulders and granite tors that make up Hound Tor hold some of the...
10
----
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
Bench Tor
Tucked away on the edge of Dartmoor is one of the smaller chunks of granite to...
4
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

15 mins

 
Sheeps Tor
Sheeps Tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and...
12
--__
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

 
The Dewerstone
The Dewerstone is located in the magical ancient wooded valleys of south-west...
18
---_
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Berry Head
The massive yawning mouth of the Old Redoubt's Great Cave is one of the most...
13
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Downhill

3 mins

Tidal
Berry Head DWS
Welcome to Berry Head, Devon's deep water soloing Mecca, with its profusion of...
73
-^^-
DWS
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
Daddyhole
Daddyhole - 'The Home of the Devil' - is a spectacular and picturesque series...
21
----
Trad
Morning sun
Downhill

12 mins

Tidal
Anstey's Cove
Anstey’s Cove has some of the best and toughest sport climbing in Britain and...
53
_-^^
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Long Quarry Point
The main, central section of the crag is 30m high and overhangs at around 30...
24
---^
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
London Bridge (Torquay) DWS
The Torquay area is full of DWS surprises, all found on the eastern side of...
28
----
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
  • Latest Comments

    For Devon

    Twinkletoes (Baggy Point)
    "Hopefully someone will take a crowbar to that detached block. It is lethal and w..." 19/Aug

    Wogs (Chudleigh Rocks)
    "Chris Hurlock c.hurlock@harbourchallenge.co.uk Great climb polished at the b..." 15/Dec top50

    Yardarm (Berry Head)
    "Certainly an interesting route. Amazing positions and decent gear (take lots of ..." 02/Sep

    St Gregory the Wonder Worker (Anstey's Cove)
    "very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou" 17/Feb

    Wreckers' Slab (Cornakey Cliff)
    "A superb atmospheric outing. Very straight forward climbing which, without th..." 26/Sep

    Urizen (Baggy Point)
    "Actually preferred this to Lost Horizon! Weird climbing as you bridge between a ..." 26/Sep

    Fly On The Wall (The Dewerstone)
    "Definate classic climb I took a group of kids up this rock they loved it and i l..." 22/Sep top50

    Needle Arete (The Dewerstone)
    "The first pitch is well worth doing (and not a layback, at least not the way I d..." 04/Sep top50

    Blazing Apostles (Anstey's Cove)
    "I cleaned up the corner, ripped a load of grass out and brushed some soil/ dust ..." 09/Jul

    Twang (Chudleigh Rocks)
    "This was HVS in the Nick White CC guide. E1 seems fair now the peg has gone and ..." 22/May top50

    Loose Woman (Blackchurch)
    "Really worthwhile and definitely E1, albeit low in the grade. The crux move isn'..." 04/May

    Blinding Flash (Daddyhole)
    "Another good route on the slab but not as sustained as Flash Dance and with a sh..." 31/Mar

    Thread Flintstone (Torbryan Quarry)
    "Sorry Mr H I disagree I did empire second go and thought it was a path once you ..." 24/Feb top50

    The Midas Touch (Daddyhole)
    "It's worth mentioning that 'continuing up the line' takes you up to a flake syst..." 24/Jan

    Sacre Coeur (Blackchurch)
    "claiming two new routes that were done in 90's and 00's that were recorded on lo..." 25/Dec top50

    Shangri-La (Baggy Point)
    "A contender for the best Severe in the world" 27/Sep top50

    Smoke Gets In Your Eyes (Chudleigh Rocks)
    "short, desperate, insecure, awkward, but still strangely enjoyable." 26/Aug

    Gates of Eden (Daddyhole)
    "The first two pitches can be done in one." 21/Aug

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