Mallorca

The crags and routes in this section of the database use information taken from the Mallorca guidebook published in December 2016.

Routes

70 winter routes (4a...?)
45 ice routes (f4...f8A+)
9 dws routes (3+...?)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Can Ortigues
Can Ortigues is a small crag that offers the chance of some brief entertainment...
19
----
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

1 min

 
La Vall Verde
La Vall Verde is a very pleasant cliff with a small number of technical climbs...
9
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Level

1 min

Sheltered
Cala Llamp
Cala Llamp is a collection of crags that are dotted across the southern...
22
----
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

8 mins

Seepage
C'an Formiga
A compact crag that has a small number of intense climbs, on good rock, with...
7
---_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

1 min

Sheltered
Puig de Garrafa
Puig de Garrafa is an extensive crag consisting of a number of buttresses...
90
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Santa Ponça
Santa Ponça is a small crag with a handful of reasonable routes. Although it's...
8
_---
Sport
No sun
Uphill

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Galilea
A great little crag with some brilliant hard routes. The approach is very...
15
__-^
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Calvià
Calvià is beautifully situated and very friendly, except perhaps on your...
17
-^-_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Ca's Català
The Ca's Català crag is set fairly low down amid the coastal development that...
22
---_
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Sa Cantera
Sa Cantera is a small but pleasant crag, with a number of decent routes....
13
----
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Penyal d'es Grau
One of the best smaller crags in the area, which although not extensive, has...
17
_---
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

2 mins

Windy
Es Verger
Es Verger is a lovely crag, set way up in the hills above Esporles. Despite...
40
_-^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

 
S'estret
S'estret is an area of easily accessed crags, located just to the south of the...
123
-^^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and Down

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Valldemossa
Valldemossa is an accessible and popular crag that has a good selection of fine...
59
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Roadside

0 mins

Sheltered
Sa Gubia
The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia is the most extensive and varied crag in...
138
-^^^
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Seepage
Fraguel
Fraguel is a stunning cliff that has the best hard sport climbing on the...
60
--^^
Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage
Windy
Port de Sóller
There are two distinct DWS areas at Port de Sóller in addition to the sport...
51
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
C'an Nyic
C'an Nyic is a wall of excellent, vertical rock that stretches up the hillside...
13
----
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Gorg Blau
Set high up in the mountains on the long and winding Ma-10 north coast road,...
65
--^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

6 mins

Seepage
Windy
Alaró
The elongated hulk of Alaró dominates the view towards the mountains when...
73
-^^^
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Windy
Caimari
The area known as Caimari refers to four individual crags scattered along a...
131
_^^^
Sport
No sun
Level

8 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Grau des Ruc
This crag is situated up the Lluc road from Selva and Caimari. It has a superb...
58
_--^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Windy
La Creveta
One of the more popular crags on the island is the delightful slabby wall known...
43
-^^-
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

Windy
El Fumat
El Fumat is a huge northwest-facing mountain crag, perched high above the road...
22
_-^-
Sport
Evening sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Xon Xanquete
Xon Xanquete is an extremely steep crag situated towards the end of Cap...
29
_--^
Sport
Evening sun
Downhill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
Windy
Puig St. Marti
A nice little crag with a good west-facing wall. The rock is well weathered,...
16
-^-_
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

2 mins

Sheltered
El Calo de Betlem
This fine little crag lies on the eastern tip of the island, near the villa...
30
_-^-
Sport
Evening sun
Level

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Ermita de Betlem
The two crags of Ermita de Betlem offer something slightly different to the...
60
_-^^
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

13 mins

Seepage
Windy
Son Servera
A crag typical of many of the smaller hard crags in Mallorca - good routes, on...
11
_---
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Castell de Santueri
Perched high on an isolated hilltop, the crag at Castell de Santueri is a...
23
__-^
Sport
Morning sun
Downhill

1 min

Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Restricted Access
Sa Mola de Felanitx
Sa Mola de Felanitx is a long line of white limestone that overlooks the town...
43
-^-_
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Cala Magraner
Cala Magraner is located in a lovely beachside position on the southeast coast...
70
-^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

Sheltered
Torre d'en Beu
Torre d'en Beu is a beautifully situated sea cliff not dissimilar to the nearby...
40
-^^-
Sport
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

5 mins

Sheltered
Tijuana
This delightful location has a great holiday atmosphere. The routes are less...
70
--^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

6 mins

Sheltered
Porto Cristo
Mallorca's Cova del Diablo is a masterpiece of architecture, an eye-catching...
50
_^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

2 mins

Dry in the Rain
Porto Cristo Novo
The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo was first discovered by Ken Palmer...
6
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

 
Cala Barques
Cala Barques is the most popular DWS crag in Mallorca. There are five areas to...
51
_-^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
Cova des Burador
North of Porto Colom is a dramatic and in places rather high sea cliff known...
11
_--_
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
Porto Colom
Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom lighthouse is this exciting venue, which...
21
__-^
Sport
No sun
Level

15 mins

 
Cala Marçal
Cala Marçal is a terrific venue, home to a good variety of easy to mid-grade...
20
-^-_
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

1 min

 
Cala Brafia
First spotted as a potential DWS venue in 2005, Cala Brafia attracted little...
17
_^--
Sport
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

 
Cala Estreta
Cala Estreta is very much a developing area with plenty of potential for new...
8
----
Sport
No sun
Level

25 mins

 
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one...
25
----
Sport
No sun
Level

10 mins

 
Cala Mitjana
18
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Level

25 mins

 
Cala Serena
Cala Serena is the most extensive venue on the island, with over 100 routes,...
110
_^^^
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

 
Santanyí
The small bay of Cala Santanyí is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when...
14
----
Sport
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

 
Cala Llombards
9
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

 
Sa Calobra
ApproachSa Calobra is on the north side of the island and reached from the
9
_---
Sport
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

20 mins

 
Porto Pi
Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and it is a convenient...
7
_---
Sport
Lots of sun!
Level

1 min

 
  • Access Issues for Mallorca


  • Latest Comments

    For Mallorca

    Trio infernal (S'estret)
    "Correct name "TRO INFERNAL"" 24/Jun

    Lanky (Valldemossa)
    "Top section of route only seemed to have two small rusty bolts with homemade fol..." 06/Mar

    Hooters (Puig de Garrafa)
    "The line drawing in the 2016 guidebook is NOT for Hooters but for the line to th..." 03/Mar

    Sa figuera borda (Es Verger)
    "There is no chain above the final bulge but lots of loose scree (due to a rockfa..." 14/Feb

    Metal Fatigue (Cala Magraner)
    "Aptly named, no doubt. The bolts are rusty enough to break at body weight..." 03/Feb

    La Isla Bonita (Sa Gubia)
    "i did the first pitch only, and it was my first 6a to complete, i recently start..." 02/Nov

    Delicatessan Right-hand (Cala Magraner)
    "The line is not correct, it should be between the Delicatessen and Delicatessen-..." 25/Sep

    Estreny els dits (Gorg Blau)
    "Excellent intense 7b :)" 19/Jul

    Angsthase (La Creveta)
    "Attention: The 3rd bolt (or if you count the base pitch as well, it would be th..." 03/May

    Supernova, Spits 'n Giggles (Sa Gubia)
    "Climbed on Oct 17 2014. There are two (or even three) new (or variation?) lines ..." 23/Oct

    El vigilant de la platja (Cala Magraner)
    "The traverse totally adds to the excitement, sense of adventure and length of th..." 08/Jul top50

    Aloha from Hell (Fraguel)
    "Hideous pull on crux, crap bolts." 28/May

    Pitopausico (Alaró)
    "Vey nice first pitch with good requiped bolts ;) First bolt too hight, but the ..." 24/May

    Sostre den burotet (Valldemossa)
    "The section below the roof has chalk on everything that could possibly be a hold..." 23/Mar top50

    Algo salvaje (Sa Gubia)
    "A great climb but hard for 6b!" 15/Mar top50

    The Big Red Stain (Cala Magraner)
    "3rd bolt is broken!!!" 19/Oct

    Mirador (Puig de Garrafa)
    "There is a large "prohibido escalar" (climbing forbidden) sign on the ..." 05/Oct

    Via Llum de Lluna (Sa Gubia)
    "Muy buena vía, mantenida y se deja escalar todo el rato." 18/Aug top50

    Puente aéreo (Sa Gubia)
    "Recently cleaned and re-equiped. good trad route, lots of placements and good cr..." 20/Jun

    Nycinyatos (C'an Nyic)
    "The first and second bolt missing, but the climb is very juggy and easy. The bel..." 31/May

    Thirteen Fourteen (La Creveta)
    "i totally aggree on the previous comment. a fantastic pitch. this has to be top ..." 15/May

    Sa sesta (Cala Magraner)
    "Nice route. Head left for the lower off (the same as Galiana m` engana). Pumpy ..." 09/May

    Hard Finish (Fraguel)
    "Bolted the right route." 07/May

    Alzheimer (Puig St. Marti)
    "Not harder than la mosca." 27/Apr

    Si lo sé no vengo (Sa Gubia)
    "Great route, the worst bolt is exactly at the crux" 26/Mar top50

    Decadencia corporal (Sa Gubia)
    "The second pitch is already rebolted!, if you climb both pitches in one it´s an ..." 14/Mar

    Lion Rampant (La Creveta)
    "Has this line been rebolted since 2011? My friend had to abort facing a really p..." 24/Feb

    Na c'al les Seychelles (Tijuana)
    "Julian Henn 02/2013 Great line! Don't miss out on it. Keep left after the little..." 16/Feb

    Bufon (Puig de Garrafa)
    "At the right of this route exist a new one, "Aprendizaje por tercios" ..." 11/Dec

    Seis pelas (Sa Gubia)
    "This is not a trad climbing anymore. This route has been recently rebolted by th..." 30/Nov

    Hay que joderse pa no caerse (Puig de Garrafa)
    "So nearly redpointed this on the final day of our trip. Three crux moves, last o..." 21/Oct

    Glückspilz (La Creveta)
    "route line incorrect in current guidebook, bolts are obvious to the left of the ..." 02/Oct

    Sun (Port de Sóller)
    "Climbing allowed, summer 2012 :D" 02/Aug

    Easy Open Groove (Gorg Blau)
    "I think is better 6a+, exists 2 routes at the left, I don't know the grades." 30/May

    Es barbut (Sa Gubia)
    "Quite tricky for the grade" 17/Apr

    Lucas forever (La Vall Verde)
    "Fantastic route! I enjoyed very much doing it. Varied moves until the chain." 05/Apr

    Left Edge (Valldemossa)
    "The name of the route is "streetball"" 03/Jan

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