Lofoten

This section of the database contains routes from the forthcoming Lofoten Rock due for publication in May 2008.

Routes

285 trad routes (N3...N9-)
69 sport routes (4c...N9-)
35 norway routes (N5-...N8)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Vindstad
This peak is west north west of Vinstad and has one hard route on it currently.
1
___-
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

 
Helvetestinden
The magnificent west facing slabby wall that looks out over the Bunesstrand and...
5
_---
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and Down

60 mins

 
Merraflestinden
The conspicuous flat-topped peak on the left at the head of Kjerfjorden and...
2
__-_
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Breiflogtinden
The amazing spire of rock that lurks just over the col from Kjerkfjorden and...
2
_-_-
Trad
     
Maslitinden
The big slabby wall up and right of the settlement of Kjerkfjord has a single...
2
_--_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Olstinden
The huge slabs overlooking Kjerkfjord have a solitary route. Approach by boat...
1
_-__
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

20 mins

 
Ølkontinden
This peak lies to the north of the village of Hamnøy (which is 3km north east...
2
__-_
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

120 mins

 
Reinesvaet
A huge barrel shaped buttress right above the road, just north of the small...
2
_--_
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Roadside

1 min

Sheltered
Nubben
Just to the south of the lovely little town of Ramberg and its superb beaches...
1
__-_
Trad
   
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Stortind
Stortind (Big Peak) is the impressive pointed peak which stands to the west of...
2
__-_
Trad
     
Eggum
A rarity on Lofoten, a selection of hard and ever-dry sport routes, tucked away...
27
_--^
Sport
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Rørvika
A small collection of routes in a dramatic situation dominated by the prominent...
15
----
Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill

20 mins

Sheltered
Pianokrakken
Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide;...
38
--^^
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down

2 mins

Sheltered
Djupfjord
The road to Henningsvær crosses the narrow neck of Djupfjord on a causeway, and...
29
-^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

60 mins

 
Presten
Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has...
22
_---
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

10 mins

 
Gandalf
This near-roadside cliff is popular destination for Lofoten climbers, offering...
27
_---
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Sheltered
Festvåg
Lille and Store (Little and Big) Festvågvegg are two of the closest cliffs to...
30
_-^-
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

20 mins

 
The Coast
The spectacular section of coast between Henningsvær and Kalle is one with a...
12
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

30 mins

Sheltered
Paradiset
Paradiset is located just to the south of the tiny fishing village of Kalle,...
64
^^^-
Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down

15 mins

Sheltered
Vågakallen
With its huge rock precipices on almost every side, Austvågøy’s dominant and...
8
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

60 mins

Seepage
Øvredalen
This is the attractive slabby and sunny side of the valley, opposite the...
8
----
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

60 mins

Seepage
Kallebukta
Above the Kallebukta and the Kalle beach, are two small crags; Honnikornsvaet,...
6
_---
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Trollfestningen
Easily seen when driving towards Kalle from the E10, the Trolls' Fortress is a...
12
----
Trad
No sun
Uphill

20 mins

Seepage
Glåmtinden
Popular with the locals and visitors alike, this small but classy mountain...
3
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
   
Sandvika
A collection of short and generally hard sport routes, in a secluded setting,...
18
_---
Sport
Morning sun
Up and Down

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered
Urdstabben
A nice set of sport routes in a surprisingly quiet setting, considering it is...
20
----
Trad and Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Up and Down

15 mins

 
Tjelbergvika
A pair of cliffs on the same hillside (hence the same names) right above the...
7
_---
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

3 mins

 
Finnvika
A fine buttress of excellent rock, in a sunny situation and only a short...
11
_---
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
 
Tidal
Sheltered
Svolvær
An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town,...
12
----
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

 
  • Latest Comments

    For Lofoten

    Mr Hyde (Djupfjord)
    "Changed from ** to N6+ **, no votes" 24/Sep

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "Length for pitch 2 is incorrect. Its more like 23m than 34m" 22/Jul top50

    Borr i Bekkmørtna (Merraflestinden)
    "An Excelent route worth to climb! From pitch 3 goes straight up, following crack..." 18/Jul

    Vårkåt (The Coast)
    "Back to Varkat: Steep and Solid. Top10, for sure. The first pitch is pretty e..." 14/Jul

    Gandalf (Gandalf)
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Butter Arms (Paradiset)
    "nothing smaller than friend #1 / camalot #.5 needed (except a small wire to aid ..." 15/Aug top50

    Love Me Two Times (Paradiset)
    "There's a nice climb up flakes trending up left from this hand-crack start (whic..." 06/Aug

    Running for Rasmus (Festvåg)
    "Maybe we did not understand where the last pitch goes? It was like 4+/5-?" 03/Aug

    Permit to Åsgård (Breiflogtinden)
    "Rob Lamey roblamey@hotmail.co.uk Top quality route, a must adventure up the ..." 27/Jul

    Storpillaren (Vågakallen)
    "The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 place..." 23/Jul top50

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "Incredible route and beautiful view. Would agree that the walk in is 90 minut..." 02/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren original starten (Presten)
    "I find it way easier then the direct start, but really good to climb. Best is do..." 09/Jun top50

    Storpillaren (Vågakallen)
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Svenske diedret (Paradiset)
    "Climbed this on 1 August 1982 and noted "possible 1st lead" in my clim..." 09/Aug top50

    Living in Paradise (Paradiset)
    "We prefer approaching past the route Demonstranten." 02/Aug top50

    Bare blåbær (Djupfjord)
    "The advice on abseiling, both in the guide and the update, is out of date. The ..." 31/Jul top50

    Luksusdyret (Festvåg)
    "The second pitch was fine but beware of the three loose blocks." 18/Jul

    Blod eller gull (Festvåg)
    "The offwidth crack in the first pitch is pretty hard. At least if you are not us..." 15/Jul top50

    Gamle rev (Gandalf)
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget (Presten)
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Forsida (Svolvær)
    "Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight." 29/May top50

    Wee Beastie (Vågakallen)
    "The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally ..." 23/May

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