Eastern Grit

The harsh gritstone cliffs that form the rim of the Derwent Valley in north Derbyshire are a superb climbers playground. The magnificent quality of the rock, dramatic settings and an august history combine to provide a climbing experience that is unique in the World. Although the climbs are rarely more than 20m high the routes are action-packed and classic climbs are jammed shoulder to shoulder on these thin ribbons of gritstone.

Routes

3718 trad routes (M...E10)
327 boulder problems (f3...f8B)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Wharncliffe
197
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Agden Rocher
Esoteric is the best adjective to use for Agden. The cliff isn't composed of...
50
^^^-
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Rivelin
The low-level, south-facing outcrop of Rivelin Edge was once ignored because of...
138
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Dovestone Tor
Dovestone Tor is the most significant of a series of outcrops overlooking the...
117
^^^-
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
Bamford
Bamford Edge consists of a fine series of jutting buttresses in a spectacular...
186
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Stanage North
Stanage North is the first section of the cliff to be described, and is the...
451
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Stanage Plantation
Stanage Plantation has a superb array of routes, including many great classics...
423
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Stanage Popular
Stanage Popular - the name says it all really. The most popular section of the...
471
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

14 mins

Windy
Burbage North
Burbage North is a popular spot because its great accessibility makes it a...
222
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
Higgar Tor
Higgar Tor is not an extensive venue but it manages to have a major impact...
87
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Windy
Carl Wark
Carl Wark is the lower of the two plateaux that sit in the heart of the Burbage...
29
^---
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Burbage South
Burbage South has never really been as popular as its northern twin. While its...
174
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

18 mins

Windy
Over Owler Tor
On the moor above and behind Millstone Quarry are some blocks that have been...
21
---_
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Windy
Millstone
Quarries are usually depressing holes in the ground, but Millstone is the...
156
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Up and Down

10 mins

Seepage
Sheltered
Lawrencefield
A hidden and sheltered quarry (named after the moor behind the old workings and...
67
^^^-
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Yarncliffe Quarry
A small sheltered quarry that has been popular for years because of its...
32
-^--
Trad
Early morning sun
Roadside

1 min

Sheltered
Froggatt
Froggatt is the second most popular of the Eastern Edges with good reason; the...
179
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Curbar
Curbar the Taskmaster has long had a reputation for fierce routes at solid...
293
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Baslow
Baslow is a quiet little backwater, lacking any of the great classics of its...
80
^^--
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Gardom's
Named after a blacksmith from the Chatsworth Estate, Gardom's is a neglected...
160
^^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

Sheltered
Birchen
Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly...
196
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Windy
Chatsworth
Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the...
69
^^^-
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

8 mins

Sheltered
Robin Hood's Stride
Largely neglected by climbers but very popular with boulderers, the Stride (or...
17
----
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Cratcliffe
Cratcliffe Tor is in an extremely rural setting with a view out over tranquil...
52
-^^^
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Black Rocks
Black Rocks is a fine but often neglected cliff. It sits proudly on a hill...
114
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Turningstone Edge
Hidden, neglected, and rarely visited, Turningstone Edge has always kept its...
44
-^^-
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

Sheltered
Duke's Quarry
There are a lot of abandoned quarries around Matlock and most of them are...
2
_-_-
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
Shining Cliff
A sheltered and secluded crag in the southern Peak with a small but decent...
23
--^-
Trad
Early morning sun
Downhill

10 mins

Sheltered
  • Latest Comments

    For Eastern Grit

    End Slab (Burbage North)
    "Changed from D * to D *, 0% of 7 votes for D" 11/May

    The File (Higgar Tor)
    "I can't jam so found this quite pumpy - I was pleased that a couple of my jams a..." 19/Apr top50

    Pollux (Agden Rocher)
    "You need to change the description as the tree has been chopped back to leave ju..." 16/Apr

    Implosion (Birchen)
    "Shame. One of my few (very insignificant) claims to fame. Never mind. A.Russell..." 15/Apr

    Flamingo Wall (Agden Rocher)
    "Really impressed with this route; the name is a bit of a giveaway for the initia..." 15/Apr

    Happy Hart (Curbar)
    "Changed from E7 7a * to E8 7a *, no votes" 15/Apr

    Apple Arete (Gardom's)
    "Modern friends make this pretty well protected: these days I reckon more like HS..." 14/Apr

    Overton Wall (Turningstone Edge)
    "Changed from VS * to VS 4c *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Submission (Burbage North)
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Manchester Buttress (Stanage Popular)
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Pensionerís Bulge (Baslow)
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Constipation (Stanage Popular)
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall (Stanage Popular)
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct (Stanage Popular)
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Neb Buttress (Bamford)
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Gimcrack (Millstone)
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Peter's Progress (Burbage North)
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain (Burbage North)
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Jonad Rib (Rivelin)
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    Trapeze (Froggatt)
    "Lovely!" 16/May

    Coventry Street (Millstone)
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Surprise (Stanage Plantation)
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

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