EASTERN GRIT

The harsh gritstone cliffs that form the rim of the Derwent Valley in north Derbyshire are a superb climbers playground. The magnificent quality of the rock, dramatic settings and an august history combine to provide a climbing experience that is unique in the World. Although the climbs are rarely more than 20m high the routes are action-packed and classic climbs are jammed shoulder to shoulder on these thin ribbons of gritstone.

Routes

2825 trad routes (M...E10)
117 boulder problems (VB...V14)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade		 Approach walk Other Page
Wharncliffe
Wharncliffe has long had a bit of a rogue reputation as a grim place to climb...		 142
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

30 mins
Windy
 43
Dovestone Tor
Dovestone Tor is part of a longer series of edges overlooking Derwent...		 109
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins
Windy
 73
Rivelin
The low-level, south-facing outcrop of Rivelin Edge is often ignored because of...		 127
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

   58
Bamford
Bamford Edge is made up of a fine series of jutting buttresses set in...		 134
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins
Windy
 86
Stanage End
The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a...		 101
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins
Windy
 102
Stanage High Neb
Stanage has routes of every grade from the easiest of bumbles to climbs at the...		 148
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins
Windy
 111
Stanage Plantation
The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more...		 308
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins
Windy
 126
Stanage Popular
Most people's first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End whe		 383
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins
Windy
 154
Burbage North
Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers. Unlike its...		 196
^^^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

10 mins
Windy
 196
Higgar Tor
Higgar is a small outcrop with a big impact and steep stuff is the order of the...		 51
^^^-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

5 mins
Windy
 215
Burbage South
The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its...		 138
^^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

25 mins
Windy
 222
Millstone
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth...		 136
-^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

15 mins
Restricted Access
 239
Lawrencefield
The deeply recessed quarry (named after the extensive moor behind the old...		 49
-^^-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

2 mins

   254
Yarncliffe
A small sheltered quarry that is unfeasibly popular because of its great...		 26
-^--
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Roadside

0 mins

   262
Froggatt
After the never-ending delights of the mighty Stanage, Froggatt is the second...		 151
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins
Windy
 268
Curbar
An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The...		 202
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins
Windy
 286
Baslow
Baslow is a quiet little back-water, lacking any of the great grit classics of...		 80
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins
Windy
 310
Gardoms
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular...		 113
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Level

10 mins

   320
Birchen
Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more...		 162
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins
Windy
 335
Chatsworth
Retiring and rather neglected, Chatsworth Edge is perhaps the Cinderella of the...		 52
^^^-
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

10 mins

   350
Cratcliffe
Cratcliffe Tor is one of the most picturesque gritstone crags in the Peak and...		 33
--^-
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

   357
Black Rocks
Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away...		 101
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

   364

  • Latest Comments

    For EASTERN GRIT

    Downhill Racer (Froggatt)
    "Quality, pretty on/off move low down and then not too much trouble above that. J..." 19/May

    Goliath's Groove (Stanage Plantation)
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Queen's Parlour Gully (Black Rocks)
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    The Prow (Birchen)
    "In reply to Charles, it was never listed in any of the earlier books so we clim..." 30/Apr

    The Prow (Birchen)
    "A most unlikely first ascent date" 30/Apr

    Rise of the Robots (Curbar)
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Bean Stalk (Cratcliffe)
    "Should be all one word i.e. 'Beanstalk'" 24/Jan

    The Chant Direct Finish (Burbage North)
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake (Burbage North)
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hargreaves' Original (Stanage Popular)
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Seranata (Stanage High Neb)
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Suicide Wall (Cratcliffe)
    "Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the m..." 07/Oct top50

    Martello Buttress (Stanage Popular)
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Soho Sally (Millstone)
    "Really good varied climbing - but suffers a bit from lack of traffic - so get on..." 02/Sep

    Whitehall (Millstone)
    "Did this today - well done to whoever cleaned it up - it must have been a messy ..." 17/Aug

    Hollyash Crack (Burbage North)
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Dover's Wall, Route 1 (Stanage Popular)
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

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