Eastern Grit

The harsh gritstone cliffs that form the rim of the Derwent Valley in north Derbyshire are a superb climbers playground. The magnificent quality of the rock, dramatic settings and an august history combine to provide a climbing experience that is unique in the World. Although the climbs are rarely more than 20m high the routes are action-packed and classic climbs are jammed shoulder to shoulder on these thin ribbons of gritstone.

Routes

2825 trad routes (M...E10)
117 boulder problems (VB 4a...V14 8B+)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Wharncliffe
Wharncliffe has long had a bit of a rogue reputation as a grim place to climb...
142
^^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and Down

30 mins

 
Dovestone Tor
Dovestone Tor is part of a longer series of edges overlooking Derwent...
109
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

40 mins

 
Rivelin
The low-level, south-facing outcrop of Rivelin Edge is often ignored because of...
127
^^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

12 mins

Sheltered
Bamford
Bamford Edge is made up of a fine series of jutting buttresses set in...
134
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Stanage End
The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a...
101
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

25 mins

 
Stanage High Neb
Stanage has routes of every grade from the easiest of bumbles to climbs at the...
148
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

 
Stanage Plantation
The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more...
308
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

 
Stanage Popular
Most people's first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End...
383
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

 
Burbage North
Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers. Unlike its...
196
^^^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

10 mins

 
Higgar Tor
Higgar is a small outcrop with a big impact and steep stuff is the order of the...
51
^^^-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill

5 mins

 
Burbage South
The South Edge of the Burbage Valley has never acquired the popularity of its...
138
^^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

25 mins

 
Millstone
The greatest of all the gritstone quarries with sheer walls, stunning smooth...
136
-^^^
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill

15 mins

Sheltered
Restricted Access
Lawrencefield
The deeply recessed quarry (named after the extensive moor behind the old...
49
-^^-
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

2 mins

Sheltered
Yarncliffe
A small sheltered quarry that is unfeasibly popular because of its great...
26
-^--
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Roadside

0 mins

Sheltered
Froggatt
After the never-ending delights of the mighty Stanage, Froggatt is the second...
151
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

 
Curbar
An edge with a fierce and well-deserved reputation as a tough task master. The...
202
^^^^
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

15 mins

 
Baslow
Baslow is a quiet little back-water, lacking any of the great grit classics of...
80
^^--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

10 mins

 
Gardoms
Gardoms tends to be one of those crags which people visit to do a particular...
113
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Level

10 mins

Sheltered
Birchen
Birchen Edge (not as it is so often called Birchens Edge) is one of the more...
162
^^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

 
Chatsworth
Retiring and rather neglected, Chatsworth Edge is perhaps the Cinderella of the...
52
^^^-
Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down

10 mins

Sheltered
Cratcliffe
Cratcliffe Tor is one of the most picturesque gritstone crags in the Peak and...
33
--^-
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

10 mins

Sheltered
Black Rocks
Black Rocks is a fine but somewhat neglected cliff in the Southern Peak away...
101
^^^^
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

Sheltered
  • Latest Comments

    For Eastern Grit

    Manchester Buttress (Stanage Popular)
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Pensionerís Bulge (Baslow)
    "A good 5b problem." 31/Aug

    Constipation (Stanage Popular)
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall (Stanage Popular)
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct (Stanage Popular)
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Neb Buttress (Bamford)
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Gimcrack (Millstone)
    "5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c..." 13/Jun

    Peter's Progress (Burbage North)
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain (Burbage North)
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Jonad Rib (Rivelin)
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    Trapeze (Froggatt)
    "Lovely!" 16/May

    Coventry Street (Millstone)
    "I wonder if the votes for grading relate just to the bottom bit. The lead crux i..." 30/Mar

    Surprise (Stanage Plantation)
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Sunset Crack (Froggatt)
    "Didn't feel like a 4c to me - this was my first lead of anything above VDiff and..." 09/Dec

    Diet of Worms (Curbar)
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Cave Gully Wall (Stanage Popular)
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor (Stanage Popular)
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

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