St Gregory the Wonder Worker
| HS 4b|
<< Peak 8b < Cry Creamdom | The Lumpy Universe > Moonshot >>
The long, low-angled slab on the left-hand side of the hanging basin provides the only easyish 'up' route of note at Anstey's Cove. The climbing is open, but also serious with minimal protection, and requires a steady leader. Start at the base of the slab..
1) 30m. Head up the middle of the slab to a belay on a metal quarry-spike where the upper wall rears up. The slab is straightforward but lacks any significant protection..
2) 4b, 23m. Traverse left for 4m to an arete and climb this to a ledge below the upper overhangs. Traverse rightwards to clear the overhangs and climb easy, but broken rock to the top and a fence post belay.
FA. Mark Springett, Peter Biven 5.11.1967
very scary route on the second section. hard in grade.good fun thou
Daniel Bell - 17/Feb/12
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