Little Brown Jug Top 50
| VS 5a|
<< Doorpost < Thin Wall Special | Visions of Johanna > Doorway >>
An exquisite climb that culminates in a breathtaking finale at the very top of the crag. Start just right of a low, overhung niche..
1) 4b, 22m. Take the line of left-trending flakes to a small corner groove and climb this to a ledge and good belay. The pitch can be climbed direct, passing the overhung niche on its right at HVS 5a..
2) 4a, 14m. On the right is a blank-looking slab, climb the slab rightwards on good small holds to a huge flake. Scramble behind it to a good ledge and belay on its opposite side..
3) 5a, 30m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left before climbing up slightly right to easier territory. Layback up the exposed, leaning cracks in the headwall to finish. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pete Biven, Barrie Biven 21.8.1955
Just perfect. Beautiful climbing. Giving this final pitch of this the same grade as the final pitch of thin wall special does seem a bit inconsistent though!
Paul Evans - 21/Aug/10
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