Nightmare

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Ffoeg's Folly < Last Slip  |  Edgemaster > Padansac >>


An Avon trade route that, although polished, is still a very classy piece of climbing. It is worth noting that the long runout on the second pitch is not polished. Start at a corner, right of some vegetation. High in the grade.</br>1) 4a, 12m. Bridge up the corner to below a small overhang and cracked block. Traverse left awkwardly and move up to a small tree and belay ledge just above.</br>2) 4a, 22m. Pull out right to a ledge beneath a corner. Move up and right around the arete and follow the magnificent line of good holds and ledges boldly rightwards and up to a grassy ledge. Continue to the fir tree belay above with a difficult move to access the ledge. </br>3) 4a, 20m. Above the fir tree is a right-slanting corner, move up to its start and then traverse right for around 4m to a line of well-used holds on the wall. Climb the wall to an easing and then head left on easy ground to finish.
FA. Mike Thompson, W.Nissin 2,1960

USER COMMENTS

route is tricky and the last section this not very good protection. still worth a go
aug 2010
Daniel Bell - 17/Feb/12

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