| E1 5b|
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The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at a long crack that sprouts from the apex of the massive rubble heap..
1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack-system to a ledge and belay on the left..
2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right and then through the overhang with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above..
3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the slab and climbing up this with care to the top.
FFA. Keith Darbyshire 9.1974
FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth 4.1969
Awesome, but not really E1, HVS is more realistic.
Tom Last - 18/May/10
Really worthwhile and definitely E1, albeit low in the grade. The crux move isn't easy and demands a bit of confidence, despite the gear in front of your face. Last pitch is a good introduction to the less conventional aspects of culm.
Andy Hobson - 04/May/11
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