| E1 5a|
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A big, committing climb right up the middle of the cliff finishing on the arete of the huge central slab. A very serious climb even when clean and dry. Start just left of the massive rubble heap, below a widening crack..
1) 4c, 20m. Move up over steep grass to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, which is thin to start, to a stance on the left at a large ledge..
2) 4c, 16m. Poor rock. Climb the corner on the left and work back right to a stance on a ledge next to the arete..
3) 5a, 45m. Move right, around the arete, to a vertical crack and take this to its end. Move up the wall above until it is possible to traverse leftwards to the arete. Climb the long slabby edge of the arete with little protection to the top. A serious pitch. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Keith Darbyshire, Paul Buttrick 14.8.1974
First belay is rubbish. Second pitch is filthy. Top pitch is well worth it. Don't expect any gear for the last 30m.
Richard Ball - 02/Aug/10
Had to excavate my way up the second pitch, the rock wasn't as bad as expected but the vegetation was quite luxuriant and not totally dry. Second belay can be backed up with ok cams and a rope looped around the fin of rock. Top pitch has more gear than other comments would have you believe and some of it is reasonable. Great adventure, definitely deserves more traffic.
Andy Hobson - 04/May/11
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