Eroica

3 Stars
Technical
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
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One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges, following a spectacular line of flake-cracks up the lower portion of the Great Wall and finishing up the narrow central corner. The second pitch was for many years climbed with a peg for aid at 5b but this has now gone. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall. Photo on page 173..
1) 5a, 30m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a rest below double overhangs. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack to a stance at its top..
2) 6a, 12m. Climb the corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner..
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an obvious exit on the right at its end.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Gus Morton 11.4.1971
FFA. Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1975

USER COMMENTS

Given the lack of gear at the start of the second pitch described here, it's probably better to link pitch 1 and 2, thus not risking lobbing onto your belay. Great route
Ged Desforges - 28/Apr/10

Or if keen to do it in two pitches, you can belay just below the "wild undercling" and thus get to the top easily from there and reduce the fall factor. Great route though, well worth doing, though bold E4 6a for sure....
Chad Harrison - 18/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 5
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