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This long and intricate route weaves a complex line up a steep wall. The climbing is sustained with plenty of hard moves interspersed with good rests, but it is thin on gear and high in the grade.
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above, then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance.
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete for an airy exit.
FA. C.Jones, A.Jones, A.Daffern (1pt) 23.4.1960
Top pitch: complex? Not sure how you could go off-line. The lower traverse is 5a but boldish, the upper swing right is nearer to gear but mentally harder. Feels shorter than 23m. Classic.
Nick Learmont - 27/Apr/13
Changed from HVS 5a *** to HVS 5a **, no votes
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13
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