Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.</br>1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to a large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove. </br>2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.</br>3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the narrowest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.</br>4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs.
Pitch 2 is bold - could be E1 5a on its own