Plexus

3 Stars
Technical
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Slow Ledge Climb < Black Spring  |  Ten Degrees North > Nexus >>


Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.
1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to a large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the narrowest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.
4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs.
FA. J.Ingle, P.Crew (2pts) 14.10.1962

USER COMMENTS

Pitch 2 is bold - could be E1 5a on its own
Neil Binns - 07/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E2 0 of 2
    E2 0 of 2
    easy E2 0 of 2
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 1 of 2
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    hard 5c 0 of 2
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    easy 5c 0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 1 of 2
    easy 5b 1 of 2
    hard 5a 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 2 of 2
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