Spectre

3 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Phantom Rib < Nea  |  Spectrum > SS Special >>


The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.</br>1) 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.</br>2) 5a, 28m. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.</br>3) 5a, 10m. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above. </br>4) Finish as for P3 of Nea.
FA. P.Harding, E.Phillips 4.5.1947

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