Orpheus

1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Rib and Slab < Rift Wall  |  The Bog of Eternal Stench > Yellow Groove >>


An exciting climb starting at two quartz bands.
1) 5b, 24m. Move diagonally left to a ledge and climb the small groove and flake that arcs up and right. Traverse right for 4m from the flake to a good perch on the arete. Climb up the steep and sustained wall (fiddly gear) to the overhang. Pass this left of centre, up onto the slab above and follow this to a spike belay at its top right.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the diagonal crack rightwards across the short wall to the arete and climb easily to a small bay. From the right side of the bay, move right and head straight up the arete to the top of the pedestal.
3) 5b, 15m. Move right and climb the crack into the overhanging groove, follow this to the top.
FA. C.Phillips, R.Kirkwood, J.Arthy 13.6.1967

USER COMMENTS

Really quite poor. The bottom pitch is easy but serious and completely lacks line. Don't bother.
Jon Leighton - 25/Apr/10

I disagree. P1 is good enough for 1 star and is technically about right for the grade (albeit low end). Also, it has line if you consider line to involve taking the most natural way from the start point to the end point rather than following a straight line feature. If this pitch lacks line then so does almost every intricate trad wall climb!
harold walmsley - 23/May/10

I also enjoyed this route alot. Possible to abseil in one from the top of the route. There is gear all the way on the first pitch but whether you want to stop to place it is another matter. It may be best just to place some gear low down and then go for it.
Mark Grist - 10/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E3 0 of 1
    E3 0 of 1
    easy E3 0 of 1
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 1 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 1 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 1 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

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