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A popular route which makes the most of the broad rib at the left end of the crag. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up a slim groove and make a hard pull up onto a break. Head rightwards across this to a memorable final traverse right onto a ledge on the nose.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up the right-hand side of the rib and step left into a small crack. Head up towards a tower. Balancy moves over this lead to easier moves towards a crack. Finish up the short crack. The belay is well back on the large tree.
3) 30m. Move right along the ledge and climb an easy slab to the left of a vegetated bay. At the top of the slab, step right into the bay and move diagonally across it to the top-right corner. Climb the crack above to a tree and then follow a final crack and slabs to the top.
FA. P.Vaughan, W.Smith, J.Cunningham 12.7.1951
I have done this route dozens of times and know the route pretty well but I can't make any sense of the description of Pitch 1.
Mike Lewis - 02/Aug/10
Changed from HS ** to HS 4b **, no votes
ROCKFAX - 11/Oct/13
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