The Directissima Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Face Value < Full Value  |  Mandela > Next Direct >>

The superb curving corner is getting a bit polished these days but remains a wonderful climb. Bolts have made it a tidy sport route but for the full three star experience you must finish up the final groove and steep rightwards exit passing some chunky threads. 25m lower-off just!
FA. (Pitch 1) Joe Brown 1953. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1975 - graded HVS! FA. (Pitch 2) R.Mosley and others 1957. R.Hields and R.Hirst climbed both pitches in 1957. FFA. See


I'm suprised anyone would think that it doesn't deserve 3*. Despite the polish its an incredible pitch at the grade - probably the best sub-7a route in Yorkshire and the Peak?
Ian Patterson - 15/Feb/02

6b+ only I reckon! Polished? I didn't really notice but I think I climb at raven tor too much! Definitive 3 star route though
Tom - 11/Apr/02

would be even better if the old tat had been removed and nothing put in its place. Now as one of the easier routes in a demanding district its fate is as a warm up route and the even worse polish that this will surely entail.
alexis perry - 08/Aug/02

Now has a double bolt belay at the top of the groove underneath the roof which means u dont have to traverse right (unless u really want to)
Also there is a good left hand variation finish from the lower belay at 7A+ although it is tempting to grab rather than clip the belay.
Simon Lee - 23/Aug/02

Why am I not down as having seconded the first ascent?
Al Evans - 12/Feb/03

bag of rubbish-its a polished horror show. really didnt enjoy it one bit. perhaps we'd been spoiled by the routes we did at malham the day before, but i really thought this wasnt much fun. do yourself a favour and drive down the road to some grit. or malham.
ged - 16/Jun/04

True Mr Desforgeseseses this is a pants route, but it's certainly doesn't epitomise the crag. Do yourself a favour and try some of the other routes!
Nic - 19/Jul/04

So polished! Felt like I should of brought ice skates rather than rock boots.
MeMeMe - 05/Aug/04

This was better as trad route. I did it in `82 with the old pegs, nuts and threads and it was safe. Not so sure it's as good as it's made out to be.
Ian Jones - 17/Oct/05

If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off.
alexmason - 16/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 66
    hard 6c+ 0 of 34
    6c+ 0 of 34
    easy 6c+ 1 of 34
    hard 6c 4 of 34
    6c 18 of 34
    easy 6c 5 of 34
    hard 6b+ 6 of 34
    6b+ 0 of 34
    easy 6b+ 0 of 34
    3 Stars 20 of 32
    2 Stars 7 of 32
    1 Star 4 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 1 of 32

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