Barguest

1 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Haslam < The Jim Grin  |  The White Zone > None >>


20m. Beware the Barguest, especially if you havenât got a wire for the flake above the small cave. Worth 7a if the wire is in place. The original line finished via a traverse out right but it is now normal to finish direct.
FA. Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1984

USER COMMENTS

The direct finish to belay of Jim Grin is 7a; you never see chalk on the traverse anymore the original line is virtually redundant.
martin xmas - 18/Feb/02

I don't think the original finish should be considered redundant. I did it again last week as the finish of Sweet Nothings and think it's a superb piece of climbing on the most solid rock on the crag. Sweet Nothings is now a total clip-up at 7a but the final traverse is a bit run out!
Dave Musgrove - 12/Jul/04

Martin is right, why have an arbitrary traverse when you can have a great direct version - and the finishing move is rather good indeed. Good fun route, as good as Jim Grin for sure.
Fiend - 10/Jul/09

Easier than the Barguest Direct certainly, but the traverse adds to the climbing superbly - definately not 'arbitary'. The direct has a couple of good moves and can be used as an easier finish to the Jim Grin, probably still coming in at F7a.
David Warburton - 23/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E5 0 of 2
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