Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 23
11m. A vaunted classic and with good reason. Low in the grade (for Northumberland). Climb the tricky wall to below the bulge - awkward protection - then pull through on good but spaced holds and romp up the crack-line.
The moves through the bulge are definitely 5a (actually, I thought there was at least one 5a move just to get that far, but I can't climb slabs or crimp) and the gear is not confidence inspiring. At that point you're plenty high enough to hurt yourself and it's a good few pumpy moves to any more gear. A sandbag at VS, though a very good route.
Amazingly varied for such a short route. I agree the slabby start and the bulge are both 5a, but the former is at ground level and the bulge is well protected, so I still thought VS was fair enough.
It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!
VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty