Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
A steep but juggy pitch which travels through some wild territory at the grade. Start beneath the jutting block at the overhang's widest point. Climb up to the block overhang and pull out across the roof on massive holds and with excellent gear, to a grassy ledge (possible belay). From the right-hand side of the ledge, continue up the face above, heading slightly rightwards and then back left. Not in current guidebook.
Good route. Arrange gear with some nuts and a cam, then power on out. If your not too pumped a good nut can be arranged mid traverse through the roof. As suggested finish is a bit pants.
Best to belay as for Raven Gully (up and righjt from grassy ledge)and finish up Raven Direct, (bold and very delicate, VS 4c).
Overhang strenuous but well protected. I bottled the unprotected finish to the right though.
Get your cameras ready as this is definately one for the photo album. I attempted this back in 2004 but didn't have the strength for final move out. I'm glad to report a successful and clean attempt on Sunday.
Great climb, one more move than you expect after committing to the overhang. I enjoyed the slab above, delicate but the gear is good.